Mittwoch, 20. März 2019

Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns in linen Nani Iro, Atelier Goldfaden


Hello, my dears, it's spring!

I was lucky having the opportunity to sew for Mirjam. She opened her new Swiss online fabric shop Atelier Goldfaden last week. She let me select a suitable fabric in her shop for free in exchange with pictures of the sewn garment.
When browsing all the lovely natural fabrics, my eye fell on all those lovely linens. Bianca had remembered me the Picadilly Pyjamas by Nina Lee Patterns. Have a look at those Bananas Pyjamas; so cute!

First, I wanted to use the white Nani iro pocho Beau yin-yang big for a more elegant look. However, Mirjam convinced me to sew the black Nani iro Pocho Beau Yin-Yang. I chose the small dots and I am so glad I used this colourway. It has a more Asian look to me. The dots are lustrous in a subtle way. There is a print with bigger dots, too.
I already knew the fabulous weave of Nani Iro linens. It is a bit like handkerchive linen, crisp and smooth. Perfect for spring and summer pyjamas! If you are very sensitive maybe the linen feels a little bit scratchy. I don't mind and love wearing it. Otherwise, there are several colourways in double gauze which is buttery soft.
Mirjam sent me four meters of fabric with the shrinking in mind. There are about 25cm left.
The pattern features an oriental touch with an open mandarin collar and curving hems. I sewed version 2 with three quater sleeves and cropped trousers. I bought the PDF version and let it print at the copy shop.
I sewed corresponding to my measurements size 10 for the top and size 14 for the bottoms. I considered grading the top but often, the side seams stick out when graded too wide. Next time, I will shorten the blouse by some centimeters.
I mused some time which contrast to use for the binding. First, I wanted to use some white or pink linen, but in the end I opted for a favorite Liberty Tana Lawn, Purple Wiltshire Berry.
I wanted to use my Bernina's binder foot (#88) so I made a sample for the pocket's heart shape. Nina Lee makes you snip into the curve's edge while sewing. I sewed a little stay seam and snipped the edge before feeding the binder foot. After a lot of practice binding face cloths, the binding went like a dream. Only after wearing the pyjamas for one night, I realized that I have forgotten to change threads for the seam bindings.
For pressing the pocket seam allowances, I made a little card template. Do you do this, too?
To honour the fabric and to reinforce the seams, I made faux lap-felled seams using my lap-seam foot #71. Here you can see how I make these seams. I flat felled the arme skyce seams, too.
The instructions were excellent and didn't leave any questions. Other than the instructions, I attached the button band at the bodice. I don't like ironing loose button bands.
The waistband features a gathered elastic back and two straps in the front which are knotted outside.
The length of the cropped trousers is cute, the side seams are situated a little more to the front shaping the curved hem in a lovely spot.
Pattern: Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns
Fabric: Nani Iro linen Black Pocho Beau Yin-Yan small, Atelier Goldfaden
Size: top 10, trousers 14
I love wearing my new linen Spring Piccadilly Pajamas!

Linked to Sewlala, have a look at the others' makes!

Mittwoch, 6. März 2019

Checked Sierra Jumpsuit and Rise Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

My dear sewing friends,

spring is coming and I haven't posted any new me-made garment this year. So good that today, German speaking sewists are meeting at Me-Made-Mittwoch for showing our worn self made garments.

As soon as the new Geo Collection by Papercut Patterns arrived, I bought the Sierra Jumpsuit PDF pattern, printed it out and taped it together (wich I loath!). I bought some of the patterns in print, too, but couldn't wait for the jumpsuit.
I had sewn the Flint Pants by Megan Nielsen which didn't suit me at all. I loved the lovely charcoal-blue checked woolen suiting I had used so much and decided to refashion it for this jumpsuit.

I had to piece the fabric together and used the fabric on cross grain for the bodice. I cut size S graded to a M at hip level. I used a Burgundy stretch lining from my stash. Then the cut out project was waiting for a long time for me to continue. Does this happen to you too?
Luckily I was careful when cutting out and so I observed that bodice piece A has to be laid in mode inverse on the fabric, otherwise I would have had two right fronts and no left one. This doesn't matter when lining with self fabric but you do not want to have the lining on the outside!
I was courageous sewing the wide legged version while nearly all of the versions I have seen are the tapered one. 

I didn't use the back facing piece because I lined the whole jumpsuit using the pattern pieces and I shortened the lining legs by some centimeters. 
When I had sewn the jumpsuit, I puzzled about the low crotch and nearly shortened the straps to take it up.  However, when you sit down or crouch down, you need this length for the movement!

The left strap tends a little to fall down. Maybe I should have used size XS at bust level.

I was afraid how to use this garment when being at the bathroom. It is surprisingly easy. I love wearing my Sierra jumpsuit even when it's not the most flattering shape.
Pattern: Sierra Jumpsuit, Geo Collection, Papercut Patterns
Size S tapered to M at hip level
Fabric: charcoal-blue checked wool coating, René Lézard Outlet
Alterations: careful cutting (bodice A on left side), pieced fabric, lined the whole jumpsuit
Pattern: Rise turtleneck, Papercut patterns
Size XS
Fabric: soft wool-silk-blend knit, Tandem Outlet

Enjoy looking at all the others' makes and those at Sewlala.
You can have a look at my instagram account, too:

I am so sorry, but I can't comment even at my own posts,

Donnerstag, 3. Januar 2019

Retrospective 2018

My dear sewing friends,

Is it possible that 2018 is already past? There is a handful of unblogged garments.

Voilà my last year's makes:
Perth dress, Carolyn&Cassie
The Perth dress is such a cool design. I was lucky being a pattern tester. The "boring" fabric I had in my stash was a perfect match.
Myosotis dress, Deer and Doe
The Myosotis summer dress was a surprise success, such a delight to wear!
Fake-wrapdress, Garconne K-050
I have seen this pattern on different women and it suits really everyone. I sewed size 40 which was much too big and I had to take it in by 10cm (=size 36)grading to the hips size 40.
Mito slip dress, Papercut patterns
This slip dress was a necessary addition to last year's Kobe dress.

1940's Tea Dress, Sew Over It
Dandelions, See you at Six
When released several years ago, I had admired the tea dress pattern and finally bought it at a sale. I had 2m of this lovely Dandelions rayon by See You At Six which was a good match. 
However, I made the mistake of skipping the toile. The fit was just awful and I remembered that many reviews had outlined problems with the fit, too. After a lot of tweaking with the help of my sewing teacher, it is now a lovely to wear dress. 

I used a stretch jacquard reducing my stash for these great garden dungarees. I made them at one of our lovely sewing bees @isewbella is organizing in a neighbour village. I really like wearing these, so comfortable. No more fear bending down. The fabric has no need to be pressed so it's the perfect garment.
Lander Pants, True Bias
They are a little bit too big. Probably this is making them oh so comfortable.

No picture for the Flint Pants, Megan Nielsen
I used a wonderful woolen suiting, but I had to realize that this style doesn't work for me at all. I will refashion the fabric.
I made a wearable muslin of the Veste Nénuphar by Deer and Doe. It's a very firm viskose knit which I had dyed together with the fabric for my Grainline Farrow dress (which is wearable after shortening it by some cm). I can now wear them together. Maybe it's a little much of violet.

I love this sailor blouse after Pattern W-014 by Garconne (size 36 graded to 38 at the waist). The Nani Iro single gauze is incredibly soft to wear. However, the color is very striking and the blouse is very difficult to partner.

Hemisfèric Coat, Pauline Alice Patterns
In spring, I finished this Hemisfèric Coat, Pauline Alice Patterns, using a chic wool coating by René Lézard. 
I had quilted the lining to Maida Infrarot interfacing which made it quite stiff. I had catch stitched the hem seam allowance to the fabric but look at this hem. I have to correct it the days to come.
Isla Trench Coat by Named Clothing
Eventually, I sewed the pink Isla Trench Coat. Mel's husband had made an A0 format of the A4 provided by the pattern. They were overlapped and I had given them to be printed twice so I could cut out the pieces. After a year of consideration, I decided not to line the coat but to finish the edges with bias binding. I did not make the pockets because I didn't like them flapping around. I guess this was a mistake.

Veste Jacqueline by République du Chiffon
My jacket is the cute Veste Jacqueline. This was my contribution to the Christmas Dress Sew Along. I used the little remnant of cotton velvet I had received at our great sewing blogger meet up at Köln in 2017. I wore the jacket on Christmas Eve and Last Year's Eve together with my Robe Viviane. I think that it's a good layering piece with jeans. It works as a cardi and it's quite warm.

I made some lingerie, too:

Harriet Bras, Clothhabit and Smoothie panties
Fenway Bra, Orange Lingerie with two Smoothie panties
Hannah Bralette and Mia Panties, Studio Costuras
I love this design. It's a shame that it's a smidge too small. 

Selfless sewing:
Vogue V7975
Chanel-like jacket for my mother.
I studied the Craftsy Lesson by Lorna Knight and followed her instructions. First of all, however, I made a toile and a fitting with the help of my sewing teacher. The right and left pattern pieces were not symmetrical, so I labeled the pattern pieces before cutting at the seamline. These were my new pattern pieces.
I used textured fabric by Linton Tweeds, which I overlocked immediately after cutting it out because it frayed so much. 
Then I quilted the silk taffeta lining to the main fabric, sewed the seams of the outer fabric and in the end hand stitched the lining seams. I didn't have enough fabric in the sleeve heads and had to patch a strip. 
Last feature was the trim which was a lot of work. In the days between Christmas and the last New Year, my daughters were busy fraying the ruffled bias strips which I trimmed later to even the width. Then I applied the trim at the borders by hand. My mother was very happy about the jacket.
Ensis tee, Papercut patterns, for my mother.

Little pouch like Annie Unrein's Just in Case Pattern. I used a sewn in magnetic closure.
My make for this year's Secret Valentine Exchange went to Samantha living 12000km away at Hawaii! This was exciting for me. I didn't have a lot of time because of family festivities, so I had no time waiting for the Big Bunny Bag pattern by The Maker's Journal but made a similar bag using denim from my stash. 
She loves denim, linen, blue, green, purple, lotus, waves and the moon which I all tried to integrate. I used some new machine embroidery and free motion quilting.

For my daughters, I made several garments this year:

Another Reef Pyjama (pattern received for free when testing) with Liberty hammered silk.
Ellis Dress, Merchant&Mills size 12 (sleeves longer by 15cm, hem shortened by 10cm after taking the pictures), sewn at our annual blogger sewing bee at Würzburg.

Two Myosotis versions:

One Selja Knot Tee, Named Clothing, three Givre T-Shirts and two shorts and lined trousers Chataigne, Deer and Doe.

The sewing year finished with this lovely Opium Coat, Deer and Doe (Size 38):
Opium Coat, Deer and Doe

To finish the retrospective, I knitted a really soft baby blanket as a present for the next year. The Madelinetosh DK yarn in Hosta Blue is so soft and hand dyed in lovely shades. 

Have a lovely sewing year 2019!

Verlinkt bei Sewlala.