Sonntag, 30. April 2017

The Azaire Blouse, Gather, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Avril

Coucou, chère couseuses,

Hello, my dear sewing friends,

it is the day to show our garment sewn in April for our capsule wardrobe #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017.
The sewing pattern The Azaire by Gather was love of first sight. I had bought it to make my last year's Christmas dress but then didn't use it. I now made the blouse version with three quarter sleeves as woven top "haut chaine et trame".
I chose the size after my measurements, 12 bust graded to 14 at the hips.

I used the lovely Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage" and took my time with the pattern matching. However, I had to cut the ruffles a second time because it was cut slightly off grain.
I lined the ruffles and lovely cuffs with a cream cotton-silk blend of my stash as not to make it too stiff.
The yoke is lined with a cream lawn.
I was a little anxious about the fit. It's a semifitted pattern, the front panels aren't really shaped and the few versions I had seen didn't fit spot on or were too tight. But @happylat's cute version convinced me to sew the blouse.
I thought about shortening the bodice because the ruffles are hitting the widest part of my hips. However, to maintain the proportions, I decided against it and sewed everything as designed.
I followed all the instructions which make you sew the front and back bodices first, then sew the side seams. It is rather difficult to match the yokes seams. Maybe a next time I would first close panels and yokes and then attach the lower part to the upper part. I understitched all the linings, topstitched the seams and attached the lining hems by hand stitching.
I am really pleased that the fit of the finished garment is spot on and the blouse is cute with all the lovely details. However, the colourful print is hard to match with my trousers. Hopefully, my planned Named trousers will be a good pairing.
Pattern: The Azaire, Gather
Size: 12 bust - 14 hip
Fabric: Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage"

To match the lovely print, I have sewn a lingerie set using a jeans coloured kit with pink accents which I already had in my stash.
Harriet bra, Clothhabit, 30D
The Smoothie Pantie, Lingerie Secrets, L
Hilda Shorts, Ohhh Lulu, S-XL

Now, go have a look at Clo's to enjoy all the other's finished garments of April!
Have a lovely last april day, 

Mittwoch, 29. März 2017

Farrow Dress, Grainline, #jecoudsmagardeerobecapsule2017 Mars

Coucou mes chères amies couseuses,

Hello, dear sewing friends,

it is time to show our capsule items sewn in march. Obviously, I have sewn my dress.
I have chosen the Farrow Dress pattern by Grainline Studio. I loved the pattern as soon as I saw it but was quite unsure whether it would suit me.
The pattern has fitted shoulders and an extended A-line with a high-low hem. There are centre seams as well as inverted V-lines at lower waist line. The most striking detail are two front pockets cleverly integrated in the diagonal waistline.
After reading Jenny's post about dying your fabrics I had a try with a cream coloured viscose jaquard waiting in my stash.
At Simplicol site, you can get an idea how mixing two colours would work out. I ordered "lavender" and "elegant grey" and mixed them (weighed the liquid to be exact when mixing). The result was a way more brillant colour than intended. I had envisioned a more muted, more greyish lavender.
I didn't have enough fabric to respect directions and had to cut the back skirt pieces upside down. It isn't really visible, but the flower heads don't go down in one row, which is visible. I can live with that. I had considered cutting the pockets separately of other fabric, but shortened them instead.
I sewed a straight size 6 without any other changes. I shortened the hem by 6cm. I didn't like the finishing of the back slit so widened the facing including the slit. A next time maybe I would design a completely new facing going up to the armholes to fix them.
When moving too much, the back hook would open. I will replace that hook and eye by a little button and a thread loop.

pattern: Farrow Dress, Grainline Studio
Size: 6
fabric: viskose jaquard, Tandem Outlet, Bühl
dye: Simplicol intensiv, lavender and elegant grey
alterations: back facing extended, shortened by 6cm.

I am still not sure about the silhouette. What do you think?

At Clo's, there will be links to all the other sewists taking part at #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 the last day of march.

German sewist would meet each wednesday at MeMadeMittwoch.

Go have a look! Have fun!

Dienstag, 28. Februar 2017

Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Fevrier

Bonjours, mes copines!

Hello, my sewing friends!

It's already last day of february, last day of our second month of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 when Clo would collect our finished projects.
I had intended sewing a Talvikki Sweater of Named Clothing's Evolution Theory Collection FW16.
I made a wearable muslin of a soft woolen knit I had bought at a local outlet.
It is very loose and a little too long because I am only 1,65m tall. I intended to shorten the front a little more than the back.
Pattern: Talvikki Sweater, Named Clothing, Evolution Theory Collection FW16
Size: 38
Fabric: soft woolen jaquard knit by Tandem Outlet
Alterations: Shortened the side slit by 5cm

For my capsule version, I bought some lovely, very cozy Twinkle Rose Cotton knit by Atelier Brunette. Sadly, I made a mistake and my fabric was way too short. So I remembered the Kanerva Peplum Blouse pattern which had already been printed at an online copy shop together with other patterns and was sleeping in my pattern drawer.
I had seen some lovely versions made by Kirsty of top notch and by Sue of fadanista, who had remarked that this pattern is actually made for stable jerseys.
I chose size 38 after my measurements, grading the peplum 3cm out regarding my hips. When fitting, I took the side seams in so I made a straight 38. However, I shortened the bodice by about 2cm and another cm by making a wider waist pleat.
I made elastic button holes, using some water soluble embroidery stabilizer on top. I didn't open them but sewed the two layers together with the buttons. The top can be pulled on and off without any opening.

I am rather pleased wit my cozy top and I am hoping that it will go well with my intended to be made grey trousers and skirt.
Pattern: Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named Clothing, All Things Nice Collection SS14
Size: 38
Fabric: Twinkle Rose, Atelier Brunette
Alterations: shortened bodice by 2 cm, increased the waist pleat by 0,5cm (shortening 1cm) and
deepened the back armhole by 1cm.

Have a look at Clo's lovely dress and all the other makes (links at the comments).

Wednesday is always MeMadeMittwoch-day to the German sewing community, have a look there, too!


Dienstag, 31. Januar 2017

Driftless Cardigan, Grainline. #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Janvier

Coucou, chère copines,
Hello, dear sewing friends,

it is time for our first meeting of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017.
Look at the first garment of my capsule warderobe 2017, the Driftless Cardigan of Grainlinestudio.
Eventually, I used this lovely woolen rib knit I had bought one and a half years ago at Tandem's outlet. I had intended to make another Lola. Meanwhile, I had realized that I don't need another very warm woolen knit dress. I prefer warm layers I can take off when it get's too warm inside.
Some weeks ago, I had given several pdf patterns to print at an unexpensive online copy shop. Every A0 sheet was about 1,50€ and the postage fee devided by a lot of sheets makes a good price.
I don't trace patterns but cut out my size. I graded size 6 at the bust up to a 10 at hip level. In hindsight I could have left size 6 overall.
Only after looking at the pics, I realized that there is a stain at the fabric. The real fabric's colour is rather dark so it isn't obvious. I have worn the cardigan like is a lot already. I hope the stain will disappear at a wash.
I stabilized the shoulder seams with a row of overlocked yarn and stabilized the pockets continuing the overlocked seams forming a rope. For the pocket openings, I carefully pressed a strip of interfacing over the entire pattern piece. Sadly, this is seen by the inside. A next time I would interface the openings only.

I made the variation with the split hem and the longer back. The neckbands, I cut out along the selvedge. I didn't fold the inner edge of the neckband but straightly seamed the selvedge on by hand.
I am really happy about my cardigan. It is modern, warm and cozy. Only disadvantage is the fact that it probably doesn't match the other planned garments too well.

pattern: Driftless Cardigan, Grainlinestudio
fabric: woolen rib knit, fabric outlet Tandem, Bühl
size: bust 6 graded to 10 at hips, sleeves 10
alterations: neckband finish, interfaced pocket openings and button bands.

At every last day of the month, Clo will collect all our finished garments of the month! I am excited seeing all the others' makes!

Every wednesday, German sewing bloggers are meeting at MeMadeMittwoch. Maybe you would like to have a look there, too?

Have fun,

Mittwoch, 18. Januar 2017


Coucou, mes copines!
Hello, dear sewing friends!


Quand j 'ai vu l'action de #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 chez Clo, j'ai realizé que  presque pour chaque catégorie j' avais déjà un patron que je désirais à réaliser. Alors j'ai décidé de participer à l'action.

When I read about Clo's  sew-along #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule I realized that for almost all of the asked categories, I had patterns in my sewing queue. I decided taking part. Hopefully my sewing will become more consistent and plans will get realized.

Chaque mois on va coudre un des pièces de la garderobe capsule. Des changements de plan sont possibles, seulement les catégories sont fixes.
One garment has to be sewn per month. Plans can be changed but we have to sew one garment per category.

Voilà le plan de ma garderobe capsule 2017! J'espère que vous êtes d'accord que j'écris en anglais, parce-que mon francais est assez pauvre!
Have a look at my planned capsule wardrobe 2017:

1. Veste
Driftless Cardigan, Grainline

Driftless Cardigan PDF
It is quite some time that I have got this pattern. I have already finished using a woolen knit to sew a warm and cozy cardigan. Perfect for ou actual cold winter temperatures.

2. Haute- jersey
Talvikki Sweater, Named Clothing
Maybe I need a modern sweater to wear more separates. I will first use a woolen jaquard knit of my stash but I am looking for another lovely fabric.

3. Jupe
Pulmu Skirt, Named Clothing

Without this sew along, I wouldn't have sewn any skirt, but now I will give this skirt pattern a try. It is an interesting modern pattern. Susi had worn it at our south german sewing bee last fall.
4. Pantalon
Tyyni Cigarette Trousers, Named Clothing
Another pattern otherwise maybe would have had to wait. I will give it a try now.

5. Blouse
Gathered blouse, livre "She wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada
I fell in love with this Shirt pattern as soon as I saw Meg's version. I have already begun sewing it, but used skin tone interfacing which is ugly with my white striped, slightly transparent fabric. I will have to cut out all interfaced pieces again and to resew the pockets.

6. Haute- Chaine et trame
The Azaire V.1, Gather
The blue Nani Iro Komorebi-shared dice double gauze with flower print is already waiting for this lovely blouse pattern.

7. Robe
Farrow Dress, Grainline
Farrow Dress PDF
Probably I will use the Kevin grey Liberty tana lawn I recently bought at the Liberty's sale. I am waiting for a great package to come.

8. Manteau
Isla Trench Coat, Named clothing
Another garment I have seen Susi wearing it! I hadn't liked the pattern very much. I had thought the pattern would suit only tall, slim figures. The panels seemed to be too long.  Now when having the opportunity to try her coat on it looked so chic! I have to look for a coating fabric at a fabric outlet.

9. Maillot
Shelley Bra, Pin Up
Pin Up Girls Shelley Underwire Bra Pattern - Arte Crafts Bra Making Supplies
I have got some lovely pink and blue bra kits. It is good that I will be pushed to sew one now!

10. Lingerie
Asaka Kimono, Named Clothing

Have you seen this lovely sewing pattern? When seeing Lizzy's gorgeous version, I knew that I would make one, too. I have made my so far most expensive purchase buying a Liberty crepe de chine. It has been washed and starched already.

11. Shorts:
I wouldn't wear any shorts, so I will sew a summer dress instead.

12. Combinaison: ?

We will post our makes the last day of each month.
Stay tuned,