Packing my suitcase: Rushcutter dress, In the Folds and Zsálya Dress, Kate&Rose

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Hello, dear fellow sewists,

Today, German sewists are meeting at Me-Made-Mittwoch showing their me-made holiday outfits.

Post edit: Because of early closure of the link tool, my participation was rejected. So I completed my post by adding more information about the Zadie jumpsuit. Post is linked to Sew La La.

Voilà my linen holiday wardrobe for five days at Venice visiting the Biennale. 

About my trusted garments, you can read here: 

* skipped the Datura blouse for the old little white blouse

* hacked little white top

* linen Peter and the Wolf pants (never posted but worn a lot)

* two Moana dresses and 

* Malvarosa dress

* Piccadilly Pajamas

* Lourdes iacket

I made several new garments to wear this summer:

Like a lot of you too, I was attracted to his year's top garment, the Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory.

I had already worn my Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory at Dijon. I had received the lovely linen for free by Atelier Goldfaden.

First, I pressed a strip of interfacing at the neckline edge stretching the strip ever so lightly to prevent the fabric from stretching out. This prevented the neckline from gaping.

I cut a longer bias strip to use my binder foot for the binding. However, I had to rip the seam at several spots to mend it. The looser linen had spilled out. 

This was no problem with this dark colour. Without using the binder foot, I would have sewn the binding in two steps, not in one like instructed.

Pattern: Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory

Size: 10 (my bust measurement, ignoring waist and hip measurements which would have put me in 12 and 14)

Fabric: Lithuanian linen received for free by Atelier Goldfaden

There are so many gorgeous versions of the Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds. I had had the intention of making the sleeved version, but didn't have enough of this lovely Japanese linen. 

I managed to use the border flowers for the hem, front side and yoke pieces.

Pattern: Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds version B

Size D

Fabric: Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen 

I bought the pattern of the Zsalya Dress, by Kate&Rose Patterns when I had seen Carolyn's lovely dress made with an intricate patchwork insertion. I had used the sleeves pattern for a Bleuet dress already but hadn't seen a fabric I thought suitable. 

I had bought several Japanese linens and suddenly, my mind paired this opal colourway of Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen with this pattern. 

The neckline is quite raised which makes the dress perfect for hot sunny days protecting the neck.

I am considering shortening the hem. Not to destroy the border print, I may sew a horizontal pleat.

Pattern: Zsalya Dress by Kate&Rose Patterns

Size: S  (bust)graded to L (hip)

Fabric: Wild Flower Linen Nani Iro Kokka, colourway opal

Last Biennale, I found my straw hat difficult to wear, because you cannot put it in a bag. Inspired by Sue Fadanista, I bought the PDF Pattern of Twenties' sun hats using left overs of my little blouse.

I sewed felled seams and omitted the lining and finished the brim with a bias strip. I interfaced the brim with a medium to light interfacing because I wanted it to flop and to be manipulated easily.

For the voyage, I added a little flower one daughter had felted as a child. 

The hat proved to be very useful. The fit for my head is perfect, tight enough the hat wouldn't be taken away by the wind. The front brim can be put up for a better view.

Pattern: Hats 1925 Brimmed Cloche 5651by Vintage Pattern Lending Library

Size : 23 inches (one size)

Fabric: linen leftovers 

Have a look at the others' gorgeous summer garments at Me-Made-Mittwoch and Sew La La!

Enjoy,

SaSa

P.S.: The link has closed one hour too early, couldn't get in!

Lieblingsteil 2017

Dear sewing friends,

maybe you have read my previous retrospect post of my makes 2017. Today is our first meeting of German sewists at MMM, themed "favorite make of 2017".

One beloved dress I had forgotten to mention: my Lilli-Malvarosa dress. The fabric is super soft with a lovely drape and it is wearable from fall to spring. I had already made two summer versions of this great pattern by Pauline Alice which I adore.

I had forgotten today's meeting but actually I am wearing the Lilli-dress quite now.

Today's host Claudia of bunte kleider  is showing her top pattern Eliana which is by Pauline Alice, too. She has sewn several lovely versions. Thank you so much all of you organizing our meetings at MeMadeMittwoch!

Have a look at the others' top garments at Me-Made-Mittwoch and enjoy!

SaSa

Malvarosa Dress Lily

Hello, dear sewist fellows,

have a look at my newest dress!

When buying the fabric for the knit top of my #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017, I couldn't resist putting my finger on the buy-button of this lovely fabric, Lili of Atelier Brunette which I had put my eyes on since quite a time.

It is a soft modal with a lot of drape, just perfect for a try of the Malvarosa Dress pattern Version B with three quarter length sleeves.

I had cut out the fabric some time ago and had made a little stitch sampling. A totally crumpled stitchline.

I cleaned my machine, oiled it, used other thread and changed the needle without any better stitches.

Can you believe that I had never changed my thread tension since two years ago when I received the sewing machine after a routine service? It was much too high. Eventually, I put it down from 2,5 to 1 and now it sews like a dream. This surely was the reason for creasing topstitching of my lingerie sewing, too.

I made new neckline facings which include the armhole seams to better fix it. The fabric is so soft you can see the fabric imprint (and that of my selfstitched lingerie). The skirt hem is falling down at the cute little pockets but that is ok with me.

I used my shortened bodice pattern pieces from my summery Downton Abby Dress and my Watercolour Dress. Maybe it is a smidgen too short now?

Pattern: Malvarosa Dress, paulinealice
size: 38 bust to 40 waist
fabric: modal Lily, Atelier Brunette
alterations: shortened the bodice (by 7cm?)lengthened the skirt by 7cm,
                  two back darts, new neckline facings.

This is a lovely to wear dress. The fabric is very soft and drapey, the pattern is very comfortable. There is enough room round the shoulders, the loose fitting waist not so flattering but so easy to wear. I love it.



Now have a look with me at MeMadeMittwoch!
SaSa

Me-Made-May'16 days 19-31

Dear sewing fellows,

nearly one other month has gone since Me-Made-May'16 and I missed to show the last twelve days.

May 19 Blouse Bruyère, Deer+Doe
I still love the lovely thin lawn of Annakabazaar and enjoy wearing this shirt which is veiling my hips quite well.

May 2o Colette Patterns' Peony Dress
I made this dress some years ago. The neckline is quite nice and the wool crepe makes it easy to wear when a black garment is needed.

May 21 Archer Shirt, Version B, Grainline and Ginger Jeans, Closet Case Files.
The lovely Liberty Tana lawn and the cute derrière ruffle add up to a comfortable shirt. The high cut jeans are made out of a thin dens linnen with elastan. The waist band sadly is too wide, but it is a very versatile piece of my wardrobe.

May 22 Alma blouse, Sewaholic
This little blouse was made out of a liberty remnant. The little cap sleeves are providing good protection against burning sun.

May 23 Camì Dress, Pauline Alice
The fit of this dress is rather bad, but I so love the fabric with it's little teapots, cups, saucers, spoons and sugar cubes.

May 24 I love to wear my BleuetRobe , Deer+Doe
You can see that I love Liberty Tana Lawn! The shirt dress pattern is cute and very well fitted. There is no waist line; so sitting at the couch in the evening is not uncomfortable.

May 25 At our trip to Etna, I protected myself against the wind with my old unlined coat McCall M5525. You cannot see my white linnen shirt B4985 I once had sewn inspirated by Carolyn's lovely versions. Repeat of the linnen Ginger jeans.

May 26 Malvarosa Dress, Pauline Alice.
This was my last year's favorite dress.

May 27 Moana Dress, Papercut Patterns.
My new summer dress. The italian linnen is quite stiff and combined with the pattern not so flattering, but I love it.

May 28 Flora Dress, ByHandLondon.
This liberty dress is calling summer to me.

May 29 This viskose knit dress is a staple of my wardrobe (Garçonne).

May 30 Anna Dress, ByHandLondon (old picture)

Why the Anna dress is not the first dress I would chose to wear I don't know. Maybe the mille fleurs print with this pattern is too granny-like? 

May 31 last day of Me-Made-May'16 and of our holidays. Travelling was so comfortable in my new Guise Pants, Papercut Patterns. I paired it with another little blouse, Datura by Deer+Doe.

I loved taking part at this great international group of sewers at Instagram. However, there was a huge quantity of participants and I missed the cozy group of flickr where I had participated last year and where I had found a lovely handful of international sewing friends. I hope finding them all next year maybe at Instagram?

I had no difficulty wearing selfmade clothes every day. My intention had been to improve my ability of taking pictures. Sadly I have to admit to have failed this. I think I will try next year again!

Thank you, Zoe, for organizing this lovely event and thank all of you who have been looking at my pictures, given kind comments or who are reading my posts!

This evening, I will have a look at weekly MeMadeMittwoch!

Euch allen Dank, die Ihr hier lest! Ich werde den deutschen Text erst mal weglassen, da das Zweisprachige sehr viel mehr Arbeit macht. Laut Statistik habe ich einen großen Anteil nichtdeutscher Leser und hoffe, dass Ihr deutschsprachigen mein holpriges Englisch versteht!

SaSa

Downton Abbey inspired watercolour linnen Malvarosa Dress

My dear sewists,

So this is my second Malvarosa dress. Although I had bought quite a lot of fabrics at a fabric sale one month ago, I couldn't leave this remnant linnen at our lovely local fabric store Garçonne. I bought the last 1,70m with the pattern already in my mind. 

Dies ist mein zweites Malvarosa Dress. Obwohl ich mir kürzlich ziemlich viel Stoff bei einem Fabrikverkauf  zugelegt hatte, konnte ich dieses Reststück von 1,70m bei unserem hiesigen schönen Stoffgeschäft Garconne nicht liegen lassen. Ich hatte da bereits diesen Schnitt im Kopf.

I love to dress my first pale pink linnen Malvarosa very much. It is so airy and comfortable and the last weeks have been quite hot.

Ich mag mein erstes zartrosa Leinen-Malvarosa sehr. Es ist so schön luftig und war die letzten so heißen Wochen sehr angenehm zu tragen.

http://www.paulinealicepatterns.com/malvarosa-dress

The one change I made to my first one is to draw new front and back facings corresponding to the front and back pattern pieces. I don't like how the armhole facings flap out when dressing. 

Die Änderung gegenüber meinem ersten Kleid sind neu konstruierte zusammengefasste Ausschnittbelege. Ich mag nicht, wie die Armausschnittbelege herausklappen wollen.

Because of the bodice en bias grain and because of the print direction, I cut the skirt in one piece along the cross grain. The selvedge at the hem had a small serged seam.

Wegen des schrägen Fadenlaufs der Oberteile und der Richtung des Drucks schnitt ich den Rock in einem Stück quer zum Fadenlauf zu. Die Webkante am Saum hatte eine schmale Overlockversäuberung.

I repeated the changes I had made before: 

- front and back bodice pieces in bias grain

- two vertical darts in the back

- shortened the bodice by 7cm and

- lengthened the skirt by 7cm, skirt en cross grain due to the print.

Die zuvor gemachten Änderungen behielt ich bei:
- beide Oberteile in schrägem Fadenlauf
- zwei vertikale Abnäher im Rücken
- Oberteil um 7cm kürzer und
- Rockteil um 7cm verlängert.

I first sewed all the shoulder seams and pressed the seam allowances apart. Then I sewed the neckline right side to right side being careful to respect the shoulder seams, center front and center back. I trimmed the facing SA and clipped all the seam allowances every centimeter. I pressed them to the facing and understitched. Then I turned the facing and pressed the neckline from the facing side so that I would see the seamline. Thereby, the seam will not be visible at the outside.

Erst nähte ich alle Schulternähte und bügelte die Nahtzugaben auseinander. Dann nähte ich den Beleg am Halsausschnitt rechts auf rechts auf das Oberteil und achtete darauf, dass Schulternähte und vordere und hintere Mitte aufeinandertreffen. Ich schnitt die Beleg-NZ zurück und schnitt alle Nahtzugaben jeden Zentimeter kurz bis zur Naht ein. Ich bügelte die NZ zum Beleg und nähte sie auf diesem knappkantig ab, legte den Beleg nach innen und bügelte die Halsausschnittkante auf dem Beleg so, dass die Naht knapp sichtbar war. So ist der Beleg von außen unsichtbar.

Principally, I sewed the facing like shown here. I did not topstitch, but understitch the seam allowances to the facing.

Nachträglich fand ich eine Anleitung, wie ich es gemacht hatte. Ich habe aber den Ausschnitt nicht knappkantig abgesteppt, sondern nur die Nahtzugaben auf den Beleg. Das finde ich schöner.

 

The pockets I matched by adjusting the gathered skirt to the paper pattern rather than to the sewn bodice because of the bias which would shift around. Same thing later on adjusting the back skirt gathers to the back bodice. After sewing the pockets to the front skirt, I finished the upper pockets' seam allowances together with the corresponding skirt gathers. Otherwise, they would not have been finished and the linnen is quite fraying.

Die Raffung des Rockteils passte ich an die Oberteil-Papierschnitte an, auch um die Taschenposition festzulegen. Die Stoffoberteile waren mir durch den schrägen FL zu ungenau. Nachdem ich die Taschenteile an den gerafften Rock genäht hatte, versäuberte ich die oberen Kanten zusammen mit der angenähten Rockkante mit der Overlock. Sie wären sonst unversäubert geblieben, dafür franste mir das Leinen zu sehr.

When I topstitched the skirt gathers, I realised that I had not been careful at the left side seam when attaching the skirt to the bodice (pin was too thin). I opened the topstitching, seam and sergerseam to readjust because I knew that it would bother me otherwise. It took me maybe 10 minutes and I felt much better.

Beim Absteppen der Rockraffung merkte ich, dass ich beim Annähen des Rockteils an das Oberteil nicht gut aufgepasst hatte (zu dünne Stecknadel), die Seitennaht hatte sich ziemlich verschoben. Ich trennte Absteppnaht, Naht und Overlockversäuberung an dieser Stelle ein Stück auf, korrigierte die Seitennaht und nähte die drei Nähte nach. Das ganze dauerte vielleicht 10 Minuten und ich fühlte mich danach viel besser.

The hem is sewn- you know it already ;) - with my sewing machine's narrow hem foot (Bernina 69). When hemming, I realised that there are some little perforations left of the fabric production. I don't know what to do with them.

Den Saum habe ich- Ihr erratet es schon ;)- mit dem Schmalkantfuß meiner Nähmaschine genäht. Währenddessen habe ich gesehen, dass entlang der Webkante von der Produktion noch kleine Perforierungen vorhanden sind. Ich weiß noch nicht, was ich damit mache.

I enjoy my new dress! What is your option for this hot weather we are having actually?

Erst einmal erfreue ich mich an meinem neuen Kleid! Was zieht Ihr bei so heißem Wetter an wie zur Zeit?

Pattern: Malvarosa Dress by Pauline Alice

Fabric: watercolour linnen, Garçonne, Freiburg.

Size: 38

Schnitt: Malvarosa Dress von Pauline Alice

aquarellfarbenes Leinen von Garçonne, Freiburg
Größe 38

Would you like to have a look at a lot of inspirational sewists showing their self made clothing at German MeMadeMittwoch? 

Have fun,

SaSa