Mittwoch, 4. März 2020

Yates Coat sewn with the #GandGSewingSociety

Hello, my sewist friends,

yes, I have been sewing but didn't find the time for blogging. Maybe you want to have a look at my last project?
When at the end of last September, Lauren from @guthrieghani showed a sneak peek showing her next g&g sewing society kit, I knew that I had to buy it because I adored her fabric choice. I even considered making the sky blue colourway!
Some days later, another peek showed the Yate Coat's collar. Now I had some days left to decide wether this would be anything for me. The coat pattern by Grainline Studios features androgyn lines which appeal to me when at the same time, it's not really a flattering shape for anyone with hips.
However, I had fallen in love with the idea and decided to make it happen. Immediately after Lauren had put the kit in her shop, I bought the berry tone version. Guthrie and Ghani Sewing Society Kits provide everything necessary for your project. The melton wool by Abraham Moon was paired with a lovely blue viscose coat lining, some flowery Liberty Tana Lawn for the lining welt, a plenty amount of woven interfacing, Gütterman thread in berry and blue, Prym sewing machine needles and Prym press studs as well as a lovely label "made by me and g&g".
With the help of my sewing teacher, we decided to grade the side seams and after making a toile, I made some alterations to the pattern. Be aware that the sleeves are quite tight! Maybe I should have made a sloping shoulder adjustment, too.

Christmas was coming and my todo-list was long and so my gorgeous woolen stayed in the pressing bin waiting being block-fused. Which happened only in February.
After surpassing this hurdle, everything went smooth. With the kit, you get a link to a special video where Lauren gives some more explanations. She describes how to insert the Liberty welt, making a little hanger loop and which alterations she made with top stitching.

This was quite reassuring and when I would had listened and watched well, I wouldn't have made the mistake of cutting the wrong, overlaying seam allowance which then was no longer stitched down by the top stitching. I solved the mistake by sewing it down with a herringbone stitch.
I used the leftover Liberty for the pocket facings and interfaced them. Other than Lauren, I overlocked all the lining pieces of fear they would fray afterwards. This was a saver because my lining coat was too tight at hem level and I had to use a smaller seam allowance.
When bagging out the lining, before turning the coat out, I fixed the seam allowances with a herringbone stitch to the inside of the coat. I skipped topstitching the hem and didn't want the hem to fall down.

The only difficulty occurring was closing the little seam between hem facing and front facing. Another time, maybe I would have sewn them together before attaching the facings to the coat.

Pattern: Yates Coat, Grainline Studio
Fabric: Abraham Moon Melton Wool Coating "Magenta Pink", 525g/ms
             blue viskose coat lining
             flowery Liberty Tana Lawn for lining welts

Guthrie and Ghani Sewing Society Kit Oktober 2019

Sizing: 
- 6 shoulders, armscyes and sleeve heads
- 8 sleeve with adding (2x 1/2cm added at front seam)
- 8 grading to 12 at hip level continuing down (like an A-line shape)
Alteration: Forward shoulder adjustment ( shoulder point 1,5cm in front)

I am very happy with my new coat. It's cozy, quite warm and looks modern and sleek. Now it's time for some spring sewing, isn't it.

Have a look at the other German sewists' makes meeting today at Me-Made-Mittwoch! Wishing you a lovely sewing time!
SaSa

Post-edit
Thank you so much for all your lovely comments. I am so sorry not to be able to answer. All my comments on blogger-even at my own blog- don’t appear!
xxx SaSa

Mittwoch, 3. Juli 2019

Packing my suitcase: Rushcutter dress, In the Folds and Zsálya Dress, Kate&Rose

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Hello, dear fellow sewists,

Today, German sewists are meeting at Me-Made-Mittwoch showing their me-made holiday outfits.

Post edit: Because of early closure of the link tool, my participation was rejected. So I completed my post by adding more information about the Zadie jumpsuit. Post is linked to Sew La La.


Voilà my linen holiday wardrobe for five days at Venice visiting the Biennale. 

About my trusted garments, you can read here: 
* skipped the Datura blouse for the old little white blouse
* linen Peter and the Wolf pants (never posted but worn a lot)
* two Moana dresses and 

I made several new garments to wear this summer:

Like a lot of you too, I was attracted to his year's top garment, the Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory.

I had already worn my Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory at Dijon. I had received the lovely linen for free by Atelier Goldfaden.
First, I pressed a strip of interfacing at the neckline edge stretching the strip ever so lightly to prevent the fabric from stretching out. This prevented the neckline from gaping.
I cut a longer bias strip to use my binder foot for the binding. However, I had to rip the seam at several spots to mend it. The looser linen had spilled out. 
This was no problem with this dark colour. Without using the binder foot, I would have sewn the binding in two steps, not in one like instructed.

Pattern: Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory
Size: 10 (my bust measurement, ignoring waist and hip measurements which would have put me in 12 and 14)
Fabric: Lithuanian linen received for free by Atelier Goldfaden

There are so many gorgeous versions of the Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds. I had had the intention of making the sleeved version, but didn't have enough of this lovely Japanese linen. 

I managed to use the border flowers for the hem, front side and yoke pieces.

Pattern: Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds version B
Size D
Fabric: Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen 
I bought the pattern of the Zsalya Dress, by Kate&Rose Patterns when I had seen Carolyn's lovely dress made with an intricate patchwork insertion. I had used the sleeves pattern for a Bleuet dress already but hadn't seen a fabric I thought suitable. 
I had bought several Japanese linens and suddenly, my mind paired this opal colourway of Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen with this pattern. 
The neckline is quite raised which makes the dress perfect for hot sunny days protecting the neck.

I am considering shortening the hem. Not to destroy the border print, I may sew a horizontal pleat.
Pattern: Zsalya Dress by Kate&Rose Patterns
Size: S  (bust)graded to L (hip)
Fabric: Wild Flower Linen Nani Iro Kokka, colourway opal

Last Biennale, I found my straw hat difficult to wear, because you cannot put it in a bag. Inspired by Sue Fadanista, I bought the PDF Pattern of Twenties' sun hats using left overs of my little blouse.
I sewed felled seams and omitted the lining and finished the brim with a bias strip. I interfaced the brim with a medium to light interfacing because I wanted it to flop and to be manipulated easily.
For the voyage, I added a little flower one daughter had felted as a child. 

The hat proved to be very useful. The fit for my head is perfect, tight enough the hat wouldn't be taken away by the wind. The front brim can be put up for a better view.
Size : 23 inches (one size)
Have a look at the others' gorgeous summer garments at Me-Made-Mittwoch and Sew La La!

Enjoy,
SaSa

P.S.: The link has closed one hour too early, couldn't get in!

Mittwoch, 20. März 2019

Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns in linen Nani Iro, Atelier Goldfaden

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Hello, my dears, it's spring!

I was lucky having the opportunity to sew for Mirjam. She opened her new Swiss online fabric shop Atelier Goldfaden last week. She let me select a suitable fabric in her shop for free in exchange with pictures of the sewn garment.
When browsing all the lovely natural fabrics, my eye fell on all those lovely linens. Bianca had remembered me the Picadilly Pyjamas by Nina Lee Patterns. Have a look at those Bananas Pyjamas; so cute!

First, I wanted to use the white Nani iro pocho Beau yin-yang big for a more elegant look. However, Mirjam convinced me to sew the black Nani iro Pocho Beau Yin-Yang. I chose the small dots and I am so glad I used this colourway. It has a more Asian look to me. The dots are lustrous in a subtle way. There is a print with bigger dots, too.
I already knew the fabulous weave of Nani Iro linens. It is a bit like handkerchive linen, crisp and smooth. Perfect for spring and summer pyjamas! If you are very sensitive maybe the linen feels a little bit scratchy. I don't mind and love wearing it. Otherwise, there are several colourways in double gauze which is buttery soft.
Mirjam sent me four meters of fabric with the shrinking in mind. There are about 25cm left.
The pattern features an oriental touch with an open mandarin collar and curving hems. I sewed version 2 with three quater sleeves and cropped trousers. I bought the PDF version and let it print at the copy shop.
I sewed corresponding to my measurements size 10 for the top and size 14 for the bottoms. I considered grading the top but often, the side seams stick out when graded too wide. Next time, I will shorten the blouse by some centimeters.
I mused some time which contrast to use for the binding. First, I wanted to use some white or pink linen, but in the end I opted for a favorite Liberty Tana Lawn, Purple Wiltshire Berry.
I wanted to use my Bernina's binder foot (#88) so I made a sample for the pocket's heart shape. Nina Lee makes you snip into the curve's edge while sewing. I sewed a little stay seam and snipped the edge before feeding the binder foot. After a lot of practice binding face cloths, the binding went like a dream. Only after wearing the pyjamas for one night, I realized that I have forgotten to change threads for the seam bindings.
For pressing the pocket seam allowances, I made a little card template. Do you do this, too?
To honour the fabric and to reinforce the seams, I made faux lap-felled seams using my lap-seam foot #71. Here you can see how I make these seams. I flat felled the arme skyce seams, too.
The instructions were excellent and didn't leave any questions. Other than the instructions, I attached the button band at the bodice. I don't like ironing loose button bands.
The waistband features a gathered elastic back and two straps in the front which are knotted outside.
The length of the cropped trousers is cute, the side seams are situated a little more to the front shaping the curved hem in a lovely spot.
Pattern: Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns
Fabric: Nani Iro linen Black Pocho Beau Yin-Yan small, Atelier Goldfaden
Size: top 10, trousers 14
I love wearing my new linen Spring Piccadilly Pajamas!

Linked to Sewlala, have a look at the others' makes!