Mittwoch, 3. Juli 2019

Packing my suitcase: Rushcutter dress, In the Folds and Zsálya Dress, Kate&Rose

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Hello, dear fellow sewists,

Today, German sewists are meeting at Me-Made-Mittwoch showing their me-made holiday outfits.

Post edit: Because of early closure of the link tool, my participation was rejected. So I completed my post by adding more information about the Zadie jumpsuit. Post is linked to Sew La La.


Voilà my linen holiday wardrobe for five days at Venice visiting the Biennale. 

About my trusted garments, you can read here: 
* skipped the Datura blouse for the old little white blouse
* linen Peter and the Wolf pants (never posted but worn a lot)
* two Moana dresses and 

I made several new garments to wear this summer:

Like a lot of you too, I was attracted to his year's top garment, the Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory.

I had already worn my Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory at Dijon. I had received the lovely linen for free by Atelier Goldfaden.
First, I pressed a strip of interfacing at the neckline edge stretching the strip ever so lightly to prevent the fabric from stretching out. This prevented the neckline from gaping.
I cut a longer bias strip to use my binder foot for the binding. However, I had to rip the seam at several spots to mend it. The looser linen had spilled out. 
This was no problem with this dark colour. Without using the binder foot, I would have sewn the binding in two steps, not in one like instructed.

Pattern: Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory
Size: 10 (my bust measurement, ignoring waist and hip measurements which would have put me in 12 and 14)
Fabric: Lithuanian linen received for free by Atelier Goldfaden

There are so many gorgeous versions of the Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds. I had had the intention of making the sleeved version, but didn't have enough of this lovely Japanese linen. 

I managed to use the border flowers for the hem, front side and yoke pieces.

Pattern: Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds version B
Size D
Fabric: Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen 
I bought the pattern of the Zsalya Dress, by Kate&Rose Patterns when I had seen Carolyn's lovely dress made with an intricate patchwork insertion. I had used the sleeves pattern for a Bleuet dress already but hadn't seen a fabric I thought suitable. 
I had bought several Japanese linens and suddenly, my mind paired this opal colourway of Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen with this pattern. 
The neckline is quite raised which makes the dress perfect for hot sunny days protecting the neck.

I am considering shortening the hem. Not to destroy the border print, I may sew a horizontal pleat.
Pattern: Zsalya Dress by Kate&Rose Patterns
Size: S  (bust)graded to L (hip)
Fabric: Wild Flower Linen Nani Iro Kokka, colourway opal

Last Biennale, I found my straw hat difficult to wear, because you cannot put it in a bag. Inspired by Sue Fadanista, I bought the PDF Pattern of Twenties' sun hats using left overs of my little blouse.
I sewed felled seams and omitted the lining and finished the brim with a bias strip. I interfaced the brim with a medium to light interfacing because I wanted it to flop and to be manipulated easily.
For the voyage, I added a little flower one daughter had felted as a child. 

The hat proved to be very useful. The fit for my head is perfect, tight enough the hat wouldn't be taken away by the wind. The front brim can be put up for a better view.
Size : 23 inches (one size)
Have a look at the others' gorgeous summer garments at Me-Made-Mittwoch and Sew La La!

Enjoy,
SaSa

P.S.: The link has closed one hour too early, couldn't get in!

Mittwoch, 20. März 2019

Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns in linen Nani Iro, Atelier Goldfaden

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Hello, my dears, it's spring!

I was lucky having the opportunity to sew for Mirjam. She opened her new Swiss online fabric shop Atelier Goldfaden last week. She let me select a suitable fabric in her shop for free in exchange with pictures of the sewn garment.
When browsing all the lovely natural fabrics, my eye fell on all those lovely linens. Bianca had remembered me the Picadilly Pyjamas by Nina Lee Patterns. Have a look at those Bananas Pyjamas; so cute!

First, I wanted to use the white Nani iro pocho Beau yin-yang big for a more elegant look. However, Mirjam convinced me to sew the black Nani iro Pocho Beau Yin-Yang. I chose the small dots and I am so glad I used this colourway. It has a more Asian look to me. The dots are lustrous in a subtle way. There is a print with bigger dots, too.
I already knew the fabulous weave of Nani Iro linens. It is a bit like handkerchive linen, crisp and smooth. Perfect for spring and summer pyjamas! If you are very sensitive maybe the linen feels a little bit scratchy. I don't mind and love wearing it. Otherwise, there are several colourways in double gauze which is buttery soft.
Mirjam sent me four meters of fabric with the shrinking in mind. There are about 25cm left.
The pattern features an oriental touch with an open mandarin collar and curving hems. I sewed version 2 with three quater sleeves and cropped trousers. I bought the PDF version and let it print at the copy shop.
I sewed corresponding to my measurements size 10 for the top and size 14 for the bottoms. I considered grading the top but often, the side seams stick out when graded too wide. Next time, I will shorten the blouse by some centimeters.
I mused some time which contrast to use for the binding. First, I wanted to use some white or pink linen, but in the end I opted for a favorite Liberty Tana Lawn, Purple Wiltshire Berry.
I wanted to use my Bernina's binder foot (#88) so I made a sample for the pocket's heart shape. Nina Lee makes you snip into the curve's edge while sewing. I sewed a little stay seam and snipped the edge before feeding the binder foot. After a lot of practice binding face cloths, the binding went like a dream. Only after wearing the pyjamas for one night, I realized that I have forgotten to change threads for the seam bindings.
For pressing the pocket seam allowances, I made a little card template. Do you do this, too?
To honour the fabric and to reinforce the seams, I made faux lap-felled seams using my lap-seam foot #71. Here you can see how I make these seams. I flat felled the arme skyce seams, too.
The instructions were excellent and didn't leave any questions. Other than the instructions, I attached the button band at the bodice. I don't like ironing loose button bands.
The waistband features a gathered elastic back and two straps in the front which are knotted outside.
The length of the cropped trousers is cute, the side seams are situated a little more to the front shaping the curved hem in a lovely spot.
Pattern: Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns
Fabric: Nani Iro linen Black Pocho Beau Yin-Yan small, Atelier Goldfaden
Size: top 10, trousers 14
I love wearing my new linen Spring Piccadilly Pajamas!

Linked to Sewlala, have a look at the others' makes!








Mittwoch, 6. März 2019

Checked Sierra Jumpsuit and Rise Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

My dear sewing friends,

spring is coming and I haven't posted any new me-made garment this year. So good that today, German speaking sewists are meeting at Me-Made-Mittwoch for showing our worn self made garments.

As soon as the new Geo Collection by Papercut Patterns arrived, I bought the Sierra Jumpsuit PDF pattern, printed it out and taped it together (wich I loath!). I bought some of the patterns in print, too, but couldn't wait for the jumpsuit.
I had sewn the Flint Pants by Megan Nielsen which didn't suit me at all. I loved the lovely charcoal-blue checked woolen suiting I had used so much and decided to refashion it for this jumpsuit.

I had to piece the fabric together and used the fabric on cross grain for the bodice. I cut size S graded to a M at hip level. I used a Burgundy stretch lining from my stash. Then the cut out project was waiting for a long time for me to continue. Does this happen to you too?
Luckily I was careful when cutting out and so I observed that bodice piece A has to be laid in mode inverse on the fabric, otherwise I would have had two right fronts and no left one. This doesn't matter when lining with self fabric but you do not want to have the lining on the outside!
I was courageous sewing the wide legged version while nearly all of the versions I have seen are the tapered one. 

I didn't use the back facing piece because I lined the whole jumpsuit using the pattern pieces and I shortened the lining legs by some centimeters. 
When I had sewn the jumpsuit, I puzzled about the low crotch and nearly shortened the straps to take it up.  However, when you sit down or crouch down, you need this length for the movement!

The left strap tends a little to fall down. Maybe I should have used size XS at bust level.

I was afraid how to use this garment when being at the bathroom. It is surprisingly easy. I love wearing my Sierra jumpsuit even when it's not the most flattering shape.
Jumpsuit
Pattern: Sierra Jumpsuit, Geo Collection, Papercut Patterns
Size S tapered to M at hip level
Fabric: charcoal-blue checked wool coating, René Lézard Outlet
Alterations: careful cutting (bodice A on left side), pieced fabric, lined the whole jumpsuit
Top
Pattern: Rise turtleneck, Papercut patterns
Size XS
Fabric: soft wool-silk-blend knit, Tandem Outlet

Enjoy looking at all the others' makes and those at Sewlala.
You can have a look at my instagram account, too: https://www.instagram.com/paisleypirouette/

I am so sorry, but I can't comment even at my own posts,
SaSa