Sonntag, 30. April 2017

The Azaire Blouse, Gather, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Avril

Coucou, chère couseuses,

Hello, my dear sewing friends,

it is the day to show our garment sewn in April for our capsule wardrobe #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017.
The sewing pattern The Azaire by Gather was love of first sight. I had bought it to make my last year's Christmas dress but then didn't use it. I now made the blouse version with three quarter sleeves as woven top "haut chaine et trame".
I chose the size after my measurements, 12 bust graded to 14 at the hips.

I used the lovely Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage" and took my time with the pattern matching. However, I had to cut the ruffles a second time because it was cut slightly off grain.
I lined the ruffles and lovely cuffs with a cream cotton-silk blend of my stash as not to make it too stiff.
The yoke is lined with a cream lawn.
I was a little anxious about the fit. It's a semifitted pattern, the front panels aren't really shaped and the few versions I had seen didn't fit spot on or were too tight. But @happylat's cute version convinced me to sew the blouse.
I thought about shortening the bodice because the ruffles are hitting the widest part of my hips. However, to maintain the proportions, I decided against it and sewed everything as designed.
I followed all the instructions which make you sew the front and back bodices first, then sew the side seams. It is rather difficult to match the yokes seams. Maybe a next time I would first close panels and yokes and then attach the lower part to the upper part. I understitched all the linings, topstitched the seams and attached the lining hems by hand stitching.
I am really pleased that the fit of the finished garment is spot on and the blouse is cute with all the lovely details. However, the colourful print is hard to match with my trousers. Hopefully, my planned Named trousers will be a good pairing.
Pattern: The Azaire, Gather
Size: 12 bust - 14 hip
Fabric: Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage"

To match the lovely print, I have sewn a lingerie set using a jeans coloured kit with pink accents which I already had in my stash.
Harriet bra, Clothhabit, 30D
The Smoothie Pantie, Lingerie Secrets, L
Hilda Shorts, Ohhh Lulu, S-XL

Now, go have a look at Clo's to enjoy all the other's finished garments of April!
Have a lovely last april day, 

Mittwoch, 29. März 2017

Farrow Dress, Grainline, #jecoudsmagardeerobecapsule2017 Mars

Coucou mes chères amies couseuses,

Hello, dear sewing friends,

it is time to show our capsule items sewn in march. Obviously, I have sewn my dress.
I have chosen the Farrow Dress pattern by Grainline Studio. I loved the pattern as soon as I saw it but was quite unsure whether it would suit me.
The pattern has fitted shoulders and an extended A-line with a high-low hem. There are centre seams as well as inverted V-lines at lower waist line. The most striking detail are two front pockets cleverly integrated in the diagonal waistline.
After reading Jenny's post about dying your fabrics I had a try with a cream coloured viscose jaquard waiting in my stash.
At Simplicol site, you can get an idea how mixing two colours would work out. I ordered "lavender" and "elegant grey" and mixed them (weighed the liquid to be exact when mixing). The result was a way more brillant colour than intended. I had envisioned a more muted, more greyish lavender.
I didn't have enough fabric to respect directions and had to cut the back skirt pieces upside down. It isn't really visible, but the flower heads don't go down in one row, which is visible. I can live with that. I had considered cutting the pockets separately of other fabric, but shortened them instead.
I sewed a straight size 6 without any other changes. I shortened the hem by 6cm. I didn't like the finishing of the back slit so widened the facing including the slit. A next time maybe I would design a completely new facing going up to the armholes to fix them.
When moving too much, the back hook would open. I will replace that hook and eye by a little button and a thread loop.

pattern: Farrow Dress, Grainline Studio
Size: 6
fabric: viskose jaquard, Tandem Outlet, Bühl
dye: Simplicol intensiv, lavender and elegant grey
alterations: back facing extended, shortened by 6cm.

I am still not sure about the silhouette. What do you think?

At Clo's, there will be links to all the other sewists taking part at #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 the last day of march.

German sewist would meet each wednesday at MeMadeMittwoch.

Go have a look! Have fun!

Dienstag, 28. Februar 2017

Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Fevrier

Bonjours, mes copines!

Hello, my sewing friends!

It's already last day of february, last day of our second month of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 when Clo would collect our finished projects.
I had intended sewing a Talvikki Sweater of Named Clothing's Evolution Theory Collection FW16.
I made a wearable muslin of a soft woolen knit I had bought at a local outlet.
It is very loose and a little too long because I am only 1,65m tall. I intended to shorten the front a little more than the back.
Pattern: Talvikki Sweater, Named Clothing, Evolution Theory Collection FW16
Size: 38
Fabric: soft woolen jaquard knit by Tandem Outlet
Alterations: Shortened the side slit by 5cm

For my capsule version, I bought some lovely, very cozy Twinkle Rose Cotton knit by Atelier Brunette. Sadly, I made a mistake and my fabric was way too short. So I remembered the Kanerva Peplum Blouse pattern which had already been printed at an online copy shop together with other patterns and was sleeping in my pattern drawer.
I had seen some lovely versions made by Kirsty of top notch and by Sue of fadanista, who had remarked that this pattern is actually made for stable jerseys.
I chose size 38 after my measurements, grading the peplum 3cm out regarding my hips. When fitting, I took the side seams in so I made a straight 38. However, I shortened the bodice by about 2cm and another cm by making a wider waist pleat.
I made elastic button holes, using some water soluble embroidery stabilizer on top. I didn't open them but sewed the two layers together with the buttons. The top can be pulled on and off without any opening.

I am rather pleased wit my cozy top and I am hoping that it will go well with my intended to be made grey trousers and skirt.
Pattern: Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named Clothing, All Things Nice Collection SS14
Size: 38
Fabric: Twinkle Rose, Atelier Brunette
Alterations: shortened bodice by 2 cm, increased the waist pleat by 0,5cm (shortening 1cm) and
deepened the back armhole by 1cm.

Have a look at Clo's lovely dress and all the other makes (links at the comments).

Wednesday is always MeMadeMittwoch-day to the German sewing community, have a look there, too!