Corset-blouse pattern hack Grace, Named and Datura, Deer+Doe

Hello, my dears,

Look at my newest make, a little linen summer blouse.

The Grace Corset Top pattern by Named has got lovely diagonal side seams but the shoulders are much too naked for my liking.

I remembered the lovely blouse I had seen at The Dashing Eccentric and decided to make a pattern hack using the yoke of the Datura Blouse by Deer and Doe.

 

Fortunately, I made two toiles of the Grace top to know that I had to sew a size 40 before cutting in my precious linen. The vertical seams have got paired seam allowances of one and two centimeters to make flat felled seams. I had to let them out 0,5 and 1cm towards the hem. I made flat felled seams of 5mm with my flat felled foot Bernina Nr. 70 shown here.

When finished the corset top, I dressed the Datura top underneath the corset top and my sewing teacher marked the top of the corset at the Datura with pins. Now I transferred the marking at the Datura pattern and cut the yoke pieces.

I sewed the shoulder and side seams and basted the corset piece to the yoke. We had to make little corrections, then I could sew my seam.

The yoke's cotton lining includes the seams.

Pattern hack:

bodice- Grace Corset Top, Named Clothing size 40 and
yoke- Datura, Deer and Doe size 38
Fabric: mediumweight linen, Garconne, Freiburg


Pants: Peter-and-the-Wolf Pants, Papercut Patterns




Have a look at all the other`s makes at MeMadeMittwoch!
SaSa

Gathered Blouse, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 mai and 12 Colours of Handmade Fashion

Bonjours, les filles,

Hello, my dears,

Voilà my make of May for my capsule wardrobe, my blouse!

When I saw the Gathered Blouses of Meg and Lizzy, instantly I fell in love with the pattern. It has got a lovely peter pan collar, three quarter length sleeves gathered at small cuffs, yokes with a gathered back and a high low hem.

Eventually, I bought a copy of the book "She Wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada at Foyles' during a visit at London last year.

The original book's title is "She has a mannish style" which describes the included patterns more properly. Maybe you have seen Carolyn's cool tapered trousers or the various modern tops she has made, which patterns are included in this book, too.

Because the others had claimed the blouse being rather short, I lengthened the bodice by 5cm. You have to add the seam allowances.

I had started sewing my blouse at one of the sewing bees we local bloggers would have occasionally.

I used a lovely lightweight shirting of unknown content I had bought at a fabric outlet (Tandem, Bühl). It is slightly transparent and I made the mistake of using nude interfacing. Therefore, the button bands, pocket edges, collar and cuffs were looking dirty. 

It took some months until I was ready to undo the interfaced pieces. I cut the pieces a second time and interfaced them with white interfacing and sewed it for another time.

I am so happy, this is the perfect blouse pattern!

Pattern: Gathered Blouse, N*17, "She Wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada

Size M

Striped lightweight shirting, Tandem Bühl

Alterations: lengthened the bodice by 5cm

Do you want to see what all the other participants have made for May? Hop over to Clo's! Miriam is collecting the post of the German participants.
 

I just realized that I can participate at Selmin's 12 Colours of Handmade Fashion, too. She had chosen the colour of white for May. Have a look at her gallery and enjoy!
 

SaSa

The Azaire Blouse, Gather, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Avril

Coucou, chère couseuses,

Hello, my dear sewing friends,

it is the day to show our garment sewn in April for our capsule wardrobe #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017.

The sewing pattern The Azaire by Gather was love of first sight. I had bought it to make my last year's Christmas dress but then didn't use it. I now made the blouse version with three quarter sleeves as woven top "haut chaine et trame".

I chose the size after my measurements, 12 bust graded to 14 at the hips.

I used the lovely Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage" and took my time with the pattern matching. However, I had to cut the ruffles a second time because it was cut slightly off grain.

I lined the ruffles and lovely cuffs with a cream cotton-silk blend of my stash as not to make it too stiff.

The yoke is lined with a cream lawn.

I was a little anxious about the fit. It's a semifitted pattern, the front panels aren't really shaped and the few versions I had seen didn't fit spot on or were too tight. But @happylat's cute version convinced me to sew the blouse.

I thought about shortening the bodice because the ruffles are hitting the widest part of my hips. However, to maintain the proportions, I decided against it and sewed everything as designed.

I followed all the instructions which make you sew the front and back bodices first, then sew the side seams. It is rather difficult to match the yokes seams. Maybe a next time I would first close panels and yokes and then attach the lower part to the upper part. I understitched all the linings, topstitched the seams and attached the lining hems by hand stitching.

I am really pleased that the fit of the finished garment is spot on and the blouse is cute with all the lovely details. However, the colourful print is hard to match with my trousers. Hopefully, my planned Named trousers will be a good pairing.

Pattern: The Azaire, Gather
Size: 12 bust - 14 hip
Fabric: Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage"

To match the lovely print, I have sewn a lingerie set using a jeans coloured kit with pink accents which I already had in my stash.

Harriet bra, Clothhabit, 30D
The Smoothie Pantie, Lingerie Secrets, L
Hilda Shorts, Ohhh Lulu, S-XL

Now, go have a look at Clo's to enjoy all the other's finished garments of April!

Have a lovely last april day, 

SaSa

Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Fevrier

Bonjours, mes copines!

Hello, my sewing friends!

It's already last day of february, last day of our second month of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 when Clo would collect our finished projects.

I had intended sewing a Talvikki Sweater of Named Clothing's Evolution Theory Collection FW16.
I made a wearable muslin of a soft woolen knit I had bought at a local outlet.

It is very loose and a little too long because I am only 1,65m tall. I intended to shorten the front a little more than the back.

Pattern: Talvikki Sweater, Named Clothing, Evolution Theory Collection FW16
Size: 38
Fabric: soft woolen jaquard knit by Tandem Outlet
Alterations: Shortened the side slit by 5cm

For my capsule version, I bought some lovely, very cozy Twinkle Rose Cotton knit by Atelier Brunette. Sadly, I made a mistake and my fabric was way too short. So I remembered the Kanerva Peplum Blouse pattern which had already been printed at an online copy shop together with other patterns and was sleeping in my pattern drawer.

I had seen some lovely versions made by Kirsty of top notch and by Sue of fadanista, who had remarked that this pattern is actually made for stable jerseys.

I chose size 38 after my measurements, grading the peplum 3cm out regarding my hips. When fitting, I took the side seams in so I made a straight 38. However, I shortened the bodice by about 2cm and another cm by making a wider waist pleat.

I made elastic button holes, using some water soluble embroidery stabilizer on top. I didn't open them but sewed the two layers together with the buttons. The top can be pulled on and off without any opening.

I am rather pleased wit my cozy top and I am hoping that it will go well with my intended to be made grey trousers and skirt.

Pattern: Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named Clothing, All Things Nice Collection SS14
Size: 38
Fabric: Twinkle Rose, Atelier Brunette
Alterations: shortened bodice by 2 cm, increased the waist pleat by 0,5cm (shortening 1cm) and
deepened the back armhole by 1cm.

Have a look at Clo's lovely dress and all the other makes (links at the comments).

Wednesday is always MeMadeMittwoch-day to the German sewing community, have a look there, too!

SaSa

Bowline Sweater, Papercut Patterns, and Me-Made-May'16 days 11-18

Meine Lieben,

 

My dears,

 

schon wieder ist eine Woche des Me-Made-May um.

 

another week of Me-Made-May'16 is gone.

http://papercutpatterns.com/products/bowline-sweater

 

Am 11. Mai trug ich meinen neuen Bowline Sweater von Papercut Patterns.Almut von La Couseuse hat einen ausführlichen Post über das interessante Oberteil geschrieben.

 

At may 11 I wore my new Bowline Sweater by Papercut Patterns.

 

Ich wählte einen fließenden hellrosa Viskosejersey mit 7% Elasthan. Die Ärmellänge behielt ich bei, weil ich schön lange Ärmel haben wollte. Allerdings kürzte ich den Sweater um drei Zentimeter. Das Halsbündchen kürzte ich auch: Ich steckte es am Ausschnittsanfang fest und dehnte es beim weiteren Feststecken wie gewünscht fest und nähte es so an. Auch den Bund kürzte ich wegen meines elastischen Materials und zwar um 14cm!

 

I chose a viscose knit with 7% elastan. I shortened the bodice by 3cm leaving the sleeves as is because I wanted them to be quite Long. However, I shortened the neckline binding by several centimeters and the hem band by 14cm!

 

Ich nähte den Raglansweater komplett auf dem Overlocker. Bei einem nächsten Mal würde ich die ersten beiden Abnäher nur mit der Nähmaschine heften und bei der dritten Naht alles mit der Overlock zusammennähen. Außerdem ist der erste Abnäher sehr sichtbar, weshalb ich die Falte an zwei Stellen fixierte. Ich habe im Nachhinein jedoch gesehen, dass der Abnäher immer sichtbar ist. Wahrscheinlich werde ich die Fixierung wieder auftrennen, der Fall wird einfach immer davon gestört.

 

I sewed the whole thing with my overlocker. Another time, I would baste the first two darts with my sewing machine and then sew everything together with the overlocker (burrito). Also, I fixed my pleat at two spots to disguise the dart. I then have seen that this dart is visible at the others' makes, too.

 

Das Shirt ist sehr angenehm zu tragen und der Schnitt ist einfach etwas Besonderes!

 

The Shirt is very comfy and the pattern is so Special!

 

Pattern: Bowline Sweater, Papercut Patterns

Fabric: viscose knit 7% elastan

Size: XS

Alterations: Shortened neckline binding, shortened hem band by 14cm, shortened bodice by 3cm.

 

Was ich die anderen Tage trug:

 

What I wore the other days:

 

12. Mai: Lady Skater Dress, Cardigan aus Rowan Kidsilk Haze 

 Sehr bequemes Outfit. Ich liebe die kuschelige Jacke!

 

Very comfy outfit. I love the cuddly cardigan.!

 13. Mai: Archer Shirt v. B von Grainline Studio aus Liberty Tana Lawn Kusmaul
Der besondere Blusenschnitt mit dem Schößchen überzeugt mich immer noch.

I still love the special shirt pattern.

14. Mai: Walkmantel J024, Garconne Freiburg und Dakota Dress von Named Clothing aus Romanit.
Der Mantel ist ein tolles Teil für dieses kühlere Übergangswetter. Das Kleid kann ich zu jeder Gelegenheit tragen. Leider ist der Romanit in der Länge sehr eingegangen.

The coat is a very good item to wear at these uncomfortable temperatures of transition.

15. Mai: Peter and the Wolf Pants und Petrouchka Shirt von Papercut Patterns

Auch dieses Outfit trage ich sehr gerne.

 

Another outfit I like very much wearing.

16. Mai: Robe Cardamome, Deer and Doe
Den Deer and Doe Stoff mag ich sehr. Mit dem Kleid bin ich nicht so richtig warm. Der Smokübergang zum Rockteil stört mich irgendwie. Es ist allerdings ziemlich bequem.

I love the Deer and Doe fabric but the dress not so much. It is however quite comfortable.

17. Mai: drapetop aus dem Buch Stylish Party Dresses von Yoshiko Tsukiori 

Der fließende Pullover ist ein Überraschungerfolg. Ich ziehe ihn sehr gerne an.

 

This drapey top is a surprising success. I love very much wearing it.

Heute, 18. Mai: Emery Dress von Christine Haynes.

Obwohl ich erst von dem Stoffmuster nicht so überzeugt war, greife ich regelmäßig zu diesem Kleid. Ich finde, es macht immer eine gute Figur.

 

At first, I didn't like the print too much. But now, this dress is in regular rotation.  

So, jetzt werde ich mir noch die Beiträge der #mmmay16 auf Instagram (@paisleypirouette)anschauen und die Posts der Teilnehmerinnen beim MeMadeMittwoch!

Have a look at Instagram #mmmay16 (@paisleypirouette) and at the Posts of MeMadeMittwoch!

SaSa

Drape Top (i) from Stylish Party Dresses

Meine lieben Nähfreundinnen,

Hello, my sewing friends,

als ich Lizzys flatteriges Boho Top sah, kam mir die Idee für die Kombination des Schnittes mit diesem interessanten,gut fallenden Strickstoffes, den ich bei einem Outletkauf erstanden hatte.
 

when I saw Lizzy's  lovely boho flutter top I had the idea to use this interesting drapey knit I had bought at an outlet to make a drape tunic.

 

 

Das Stylish Party Dresses Buch erwarb ich bei einem London-Besuch.

I bought the Stylish Party Dresses book on the occasion of a visit in London. 

Die Größe 8 wählte ich nach der Oberweite und dachte kurz darüber nach, einen hohen Ausschnitt für hinten zu wählen und bin froh, den Ausschnitt wie im Original genäht zu haben, denn er passt so gut zur fallenden Saumlänge.

I made size 8 according to my bust size. I thought about using the pattern of a high back neckline but I am glad that I didn't because it is a special feature combined with the high low hemline.

 

Die Silhouette ist neu für mich, aber ich trage das Top sehr gerne!

This is a new silhouette for me but I really like to wear this top. 

Pattern: Drape Top (i) from Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

Size 8

Fabric: loose transparent drapey knit, Tandem Bühl,
no alterations.

So, jetzt aber schnell zum MeMadeMittwoch, wo Almut uns eine wunderbare Alabama Chanin Jacke zeigt!

Have a look at MeMadeMittwoch, where Almut is showing a wonderful Alabama Chanin Cardigan!

SaSa