Taika Dress, Named Clothing

My dear sewing friends,

such a long time I haven’t written any post about my makes. 

Every year, I would sew a new summer dress although my wardrobe is showing quite a lot of them. 

As soon as I had seen Marja’s Taika dress she had sewn as a tester for Named Clothing, I bought the dress pattern thinking of the same Atelier Brunette viscose crepe that Barbara later used for the pattern, have a look at her thorough post with beautiful pictures! However, I changed my mind using this flower print.

P

Guthrie and Ghani have celebrated their 10 years anniversary with an ecovero viscose printed with an exclusive design by fabulous Lauren in cooperation with Rachel Parker. If interested, here you can see all the details about the design:

https://youtu.be/lH6wyIWY7mc?si=G1fDa3biB3JvXJKQ

I’ve always admired Lauren’s tasteful work and couldn’t resist buying #beehappyfabric for sewing a dress.

ByHandLondon had their 10 years anniversary, too, and were celebrated by Janene @ooobop and Suzy @sewing_in_spain with the IG-challenge #BHL10years. With a post of my old Elisalex dress, I was lucky winning a 50£ price @pigeonwishes! I loved browsing all the lovely buttons and found the perfect buttons for my fabric.

I made a toile some time ago because I suspected some fitting issues with the gathering. I cut the front bodice in size 36, back bodice and sleeves in 38, skirt in 40 (toile in hip length) which went together smoothly.

I decided in shortening the bodice in upper bust height by 0,5cm because I am only 1,62cm tall.

When cutting my fabric, I cut the pieces mostly in single layers because I didn’t want the flowers being doubled and I love the result.

Seam allowances are 1cm, I topstitched nearly all the seams fixing the overlocked seam allowances for easier garment maintenance.

When sewing the skirt pieces, I realised that I had forgotten to correct the back skirt pattern pieces which I had cut out in a wrong size height 1” too short. I decided shortening the skirt front pieces by the same amount. The print being so busy, it isn’t too obvious that the waist is shortened.

Some sewists remarked that the buttonbands were gaping between the buttons, so I shortened the button hole distance from 8cm to 6cm and sewed 12 buttons.

Thank you Emmanuelle @zoubizoubisou for inspiring me to finish the dress eventually!

Hopefully, I will be able to wear the maxi dress on some sunny autumn days despite the summery print.

Pattern: Taika Dress by Named Clothing 

Size:      Front bodice 36

              Back bodice and sleeves 38

              Skirt 40

Alterations: bodice shortened by 0,5cm

              Button distance 6cm, 12 buttons

Fabric:   Ecovero viscose “Bee Happy Blooms” @rachelparkerdesigns and        @guthrieghani

Buttons: Lucid Button Set @pigeonwishes won at #BHL10 @byhandlondon @ooobop and @sewing_in_spain

It’s MeMadeMittwoch when a lot of German sewists would meet showing their memade garments. Go have a look!

Have a fabulous sewing time,

SaSa

Lanvin inspired Christmas Dress 2017 "Vom Laufsteg in den Kleiderschrank"

My dear sewing friends,

did you have lovely Christmas days? I enjoyed some really relaxed days with our bigger family and good food.

My Christmas dress was only finished the day of Christmas Eve.

My dress is inspired by these two dresses of Lanvin's Resort Collection 2018. First, I wanted to sew the blue dress with the ruched collar but then I liked symmetrical collar stand of the white dress more.

I used Named Clothing's Helmi dress bodice pattern and the Flora dress skirt pattern. I cut a separate left button band to include the flounce.

After sewing the bodice with sleeves, I realized that the lovely fabric's stretch is lengthwise and had no more motivation to continue this project. After several days, I recut the whole bodice in cross grain and I sewed it for a second time.

I sewed two layers of frills which I made of spirals. The button band frills are of different widths with right sides out and the collar frills of the smaller width with left sides together. I made them rolled hems with the overlocker and rayon thread. In addition, I gathered the ruches to make them more dense.

 

I prolongated the skirt at the waist by three centimeters and I used this excess for sewing a tunnel at the inside with 1,5cm wide button hole openings. For my dress, I reduced the tie width to two centimeters, sewed the tie ends and added a two centimeter wide underbust elastic in the middle to make the waist elasticated.

I am quite pleased with the finished dress. It is very comfortable and the fabric is swishing.

inspiration: Lanvin Resort 2018
pattern: Helmi dress, Named Clothing (bodice), Flora dress, ByHandLondon (skirt)
size: 8 skirt
fabric: changeable stretch synthetic, René Lézard

Have a look at all the others' Christmas dresses at Me-Made-Mittwoch and at the other makes of "Vom Laufsteg in den Kleiderschrank" and "Designin'December"!
Have a lovely time,
SaSa

Corset-blouse pattern hack Grace, Named and Datura, Deer+Doe

Hello, my dears,

Look at my newest make, a little linen summer blouse.

The Grace Corset Top pattern by Named has got lovely diagonal side seams but the shoulders are much too naked for my liking.

I remembered the lovely blouse I had seen at The Dashing Eccentric and decided to make a pattern hack using the yoke of the Datura Blouse by Deer and Doe.

 

Fortunately, I made two toiles of the Grace top to know that I had to sew a size 40 before cutting in my precious linen. The vertical seams have got paired seam allowances of one and two centimeters to make flat felled seams. I had to let them out 0,5 and 1cm towards the hem. I made flat felled seams of 5mm with my flat felled foot Bernina Nr. 70 shown here.

When finished the corset top, I dressed the Datura top underneath the corset top and my sewing teacher marked the top of the corset at the Datura with pins. Now I transferred the marking at the Datura pattern and cut the yoke pieces.

I sewed the shoulder and side seams and basted the corset piece to the yoke. We had to make little corrections, then I could sew my seam.

The yoke's cotton lining includes the seams.

Pattern hack:

bodice- Grace Corset Top, Named Clothing size 40 and
yoke- Datura, Deer and Doe size 38
Fabric: mediumweight linen, Garconne, Freiburg


Pants: Peter-and-the-Wolf Pants, Papercut Patterns




Have a look at all the other`s makes at MeMadeMittwoch!
SaSa

Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Fevrier

Bonjours, mes copines!

Hello, my sewing friends!

It's already last day of february, last day of our second month of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 when Clo would collect our finished projects.

I had intended sewing a Talvikki Sweater of Named Clothing's Evolution Theory Collection FW16.
I made a wearable muslin of a soft woolen knit I had bought at a local outlet.

It is very loose and a little too long because I am only 1,65m tall. I intended to shorten the front a little more than the back.

Pattern: Talvikki Sweater, Named Clothing, Evolution Theory Collection FW16
Size: 38
Fabric: soft woolen jaquard knit by Tandem Outlet
Alterations: Shortened the side slit by 5cm

For my capsule version, I bought some lovely, very cozy Twinkle Rose Cotton knit by Atelier Brunette. Sadly, I made a mistake and my fabric was way too short. So I remembered the Kanerva Peplum Blouse pattern which had already been printed at an online copy shop together with other patterns and was sleeping in my pattern drawer.

I had seen some lovely versions made by Kirsty of top notch and by Sue of fadanista, who had remarked that this pattern is actually made for stable jerseys.

I chose size 38 after my measurements, grading the peplum 3cm out regarding my hips. When fitting, I took the side seams in so I made a straight 38. However, I shortened the bodice by about 2cm and another cm by making a wider waist pleat.

I made elastic button holes, using some water soluble embroidery stabilizer on top. I didn't open them but sewed the two layers together with the buttons. The top can be pulled on and off without any opening.

I am rather pleased wit my cozy top and I am hoping that it will go well with my intended to be made grey trousers and skirt.

Pattern: Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named Clothing, All Things Nice Collection SS14
Size: 38
Fabric: Twinkle Rose, Atelier Brunette
Alterations: shortened bodice by 2 cm, increased the waist pleat by 0,5cm (shortening 1cm) and
deepened the back armhole by 1cm.

Have a look at Clo's lovely dress and all the other makes (links at the comments).

Wednesday is always MeMadeMittwoch-day to the German sewing community, have a look there, too!

SaSa

Wenona dress, Named Clothing: fail?

Dear sewing friends,

When visiting my daughter last year, I had bought some lovely Liberty Tana Lawn. 

After some hesitation, the lovely Wenona dress versions by Megan, Yoshimi and Claudia inspired me to make one, too.

I printed a bunch of the technical drawing to find the best arrangement of the two fabrics for the details.

I chose one size smaller than according to my measurements because every sewist had outlined  a big outcome.

When cutting out, I was quite careful to be accurate with the print.

I finished all seams with french seams.

I snipped the seam allowance to turn it under two times to hem the sleeve slits.

When I finished my dress in july, weather was too hot to wear it. Furthermore, I realised that the print bothered me a bit.

In the first week of Oktober, we had our great sewing bee "AnNäherung Süd" at Würzburg with about fourty lovely women sewing and chattering together. I was very pleased sharing a room with Julia Sewionista, IsaLaBella and Almut of La Couseuse, we had such a great time!

I asked for help how to put an outfit with the dress. This was the only time I wore it. I suppose that I will have to shorten it. It looks too much like an apron dress. What do you think? I appreciate honest opinions!

Pattern: Wenona dress, Named Clothing

Fabric: Liberty Tana Lawn Ruby Templar E and Anderson C

Size: 36

Alterations: One size smaller than my measurements.

Lovely Wenona dresses made by:

Megan "Meggipeg"

Yoshimi "The flying squirrel"

Claudia "Bunte Kleider"

Now it is time to hop over to German MeMadeMittwoch. Have a nice time looking at all those memades,

SaSa

Unlined floral Lourdes Cropped Jacket, Named Clothing

When I had cut out my Inari dress, I got some 80 cm leftover of this precious linen and decided to make another little unlined jacket.

First, I wanted to repeat the Victoria blazer. However, the birthday sale at Named Clothing incited me to try the Lourdes Cropped Jacket.

The pdf-pattern is not pleasant. The two sizes at one print are higgledy-piggledy placed so you cannot grade from one size to the other. You have to be happy that the pieces of one size are not laid one over the other so they can be cut out directly. The size is not written at the pattern pieces so you have to write it down not to forget it.

I sewed size 38. The only change I made after a rough paper muslin was shifting the bust darts inwards for 2cm and a forward shoulder adjustment of 1cm.

Because I didn't line the jacket, I omitted the interfacing at neckline, armholes and sleeve caps. I didn't finish the raw edges like indicated before sewing.

The fake pockets, I pinned in place at the outer dart wings and basted them in place. Then I sewed the darts without cutting them out because of the omitted lining.

All the seams, I finished with a false flat felled seam.

I first sewed the seam, SA being 1cm at Named Clothing, and graded the back SA to 4mm.

I then made the first seam with the flat felled foot (Bernina #70).

Now I pressed the seam and sewed the second seam.

All the seams get sturdy and firm and everything is neat at the inside.

The facing, I finished with a small hem (Bernina foot #69). I understitched all the seam allowances at the facings (not seen in the pics).

I followed the good instructions which give nice results at the hem and the inverted pleat. 

The sleeves have got some lovely rounded slits.

To prevent the facing flapping out, I sewed in the shoulder seam ditch. I folded the hem seam allowance under by 1cm and edgestitched by the wrong side.

Afterwards, I noticed, that I had crossed the fake pocket flap. So I undid the hem seam at the flaps, secured the seam in front and stitched from the back under the flaps as long as possible.

I sewed a little loop at the inverted pleat, fixing the facing there, too.

Pattern: Lourdes Cropped Jacket of the Ticket Collection, Named Clothing

Size: 38

Fabric: Italian linen, Garçonne, Freiburg

Alterations: shifted the bust darts to the center by 2cm, 

                     forward shoulder adjustment by 1cm.

Today, about a hundred of German sewists are meeting at MeMadeMittwoch. Go have a look!

SaSa