Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns in linen Nani Iro, Atelier Goldfaden

(Advertisement)

Hello, my dears, it's spring!

I was lucky having the opportunity to sew for Mirjam. She opened her new Swiss online fabric shop Atelier Goldfaden last week. She let me select a suitable fabric in her shop for free in exchange with pictures of the sewn garment.

When browsing all the lovely natural fabrics, my eye fell on all those lovely linens. Bianca had remembered me the Picadilly Pyjamas by Nina Lee Patterns. Have a look at those Bananas Pyjamas; so cute!

First, I wanted to use the white Nani iro pocho Beau yin-yang big for a more elegant look. However, Mirjam convinced me to sew the black Nani iro Pocho Beau Yin-Yang. I chose the small dots and I am so glad I used this colourway. It has a more Asian look to me. The dots are lustrous in a subtle way. There is a print with bigger dots, too.

I already knew the fabulous weave of Nani Iro linens. It is a bit like handkerchive linen, crisp and smooth. Perfect for spring and summer pyjamas! If you are very sensitive maybe the linen feels a little bit scratchy. I don't mind and love wearing it. Otherwise, there are several colourways in double gauze which is buttery soft.

Mirjam sent me four meters of fabric with the shrinking in mind. There are about 25cm left.

The pattern features an oriental touch with an open mandarin collar and curving hems. I sewed version 2 with three quater sleeves and cropped trousers. I bought the PDF version and let it print at the copy shop.

I sewed corresponding to my measurements size 10 for the top and size 14 for the bottoms. I considered grading the top but often, the side seams stick out when graded too wide. Next time, I will shorten the blouse by some centimeters.

I mused some time which contrast to use for the binding. First, I wanted to use some white or pink linen, but in the end I opted for a favorite Liberty Tana Lawn, Purple Wiltshire Berry.

I wanted to use my Bernina's binder foot (#88) so I made a sample for the pocket's heart shape. Nina Lee makes you snip into the curve's edge while sewing. I sewed a little stay seam and snipped the edge before feeding the binder foot. After a lot of practice binding face cloths, the binding went like a dream. Only after wearing the pyjamas for one night, I realized that I have forgotten to change threads for the seam bindings.

For pressing the pocket seam allowances, I made a little card template. Do you do this, too?

To honour the fabric and to reinforce the seams, I made faux lap-felled seams using my lap-seam foot #71. Here you can see how I make these seams. I flat felled the arme skyce seams, too.

The instructions were excellent and didn't leave any questions. Other than the instructions, I attached the button band at the bodice. I don't like ironing loose button bands.

The waistband features a gathered elastic back and two straps in the front which are knotted outside.

The length of the cropped trousers is cute, the side seams are situated a little more to the front shaping the curved hem in a lovely spot.

Pattern: Piccadilly Pyjamas, Nina Lee Patterns
Fabric: Nani Iro linen Black Pocho Beau Yin-Yan small, Atelier Goldfaden
Size: top 10, trousers 14

I love wearing my new linen Spring Piccadilly Pajamas!

Linked to Sewlala, have a look at the others' makes!

The Azaire Blouse, Gather, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Avril

Coucou, chère couseuses,

Hello, my dear sewing friends,

it is the day to show our garment sewn in April for our capsule wardrobe #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017.

The sewing pattern The Azaire by Gather was love of first sight. I had bought it to make my last year's Christmas dress but then didn't use it. I now made the blouse version with three quarter sleeves as woven top "haut chaine et trame".

I chose the size after my measurements, 12 bust graded to 14 at the hips.

I used the lovely Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage" and took my time with the pattern matching. However, I had to cut the ruffles a second time because it was cut slightly off grain.

I lined the ruffles and lovely cuffs with a cream cotton-silk blend of my stash as not to make it too stiff.

The yoke is lined with a cream lawn.

I was a little anxious about the fit. It's a semifitted pattern, the front panels aren't really shaped and the few versions I had seen didn't fit spot on or were too tight. But @happylat's cute version convinced me to sew the blouse.

I thought about shortening the bodice because the ruffles are hitting the widest part of my hips. However, to maintain the proportions, I decided against it and sewed everything as designed.

I followed all the instructions which make you sew the front and back bodices first, then sew the side seams. It is rather difficult to match the yokes seams. Maybe a next time I would first close panels and yokes and then attach the lower part to the upper part. I understitched all the linings, topstitched the seams and attached the lining hems by hand stitching.

I am really pleased that the fit of the finished garment is spot on and the blouse is cute with all the lovely details. However, the colourful print is hard to match with my trousers. Hopefully, my planned Named trousers will be a good pairing.

Pattern: The Azaire, Gather
Size: 12 bust - 14 hip
Fabric: Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage"

To match the lovely print, I have sewn a lingerie set using a jeans coloured kit with pink accents which I already had in my stash.

Harriet bra, Clothhabit, 30D
The Smoothie Pantie, Lingerie Secrets, L
Hilda Shorts, Ohhh Lulu, S-XL

Now, go have a look at Clo's to enjoy all the other's finished garments of April!

Have a lovely last april day, 

SaSa

Reef, Megan Nielsen

My dear sewing fellows,

I was a pattern tester for Megan Nielsen's new cute pattern Reef which features a camisole and shorts set with lovely clean lines.

http://megannielsen.com/products/reef

I made pyjamas out of remnant Nani Iro double gauze which is a very lovely and cozy fabric. Despite it's double layers, the fabric is very nice to wear at high temperatures.

The camisole is bias cut, features a v-neckline and a special crossover yoke in the back. I chose the mid rise shorts with the lovely curved hem.

I feel no need of pockets in my pyjamas but I made one pocket to test the pattern's clever staypocket with great success.

To spare my precious fabric, I cut all of the facings out of an off white cotton lawn of my stash.

The camisole is quite loose but covering, appropriate for sleeping wear. There are instructions how to get a closer fit if desired so.

Camisole and shorts sizes were chosen following my bust and hip sizes and the sizing is spot on. Those wrinkles in the back are due to the fact I had to climb a little stone wall to take the self-timer pictures.

I followed the instructions with only very little changes: I sewed two times over the neck v to ensure the seam. I understitched the neckline and armhole seams where I could reach them. I trimmed back the hem of short pieces 7 and 8.

Pattern: Reef, Megan Nielsen
Fabric: Nani Iro Bird's Eye Jiu metalic double gauze
Camisole size S
Mid rise shorts size M

I loved to sew this pattern. The instructions were very clear, some little tweaks have been done now and I love the neat finish acquired by the facings.

There is a short rise version of the shorts, too. You can sew either version without the curved hem. However, I like the curved hem being modest for my old legs. The camisole's high low hem gives a lovely line. Both patterns can be used for casual tops and shorts, too. Have a look at my old Megan Nielsen Briar shirt combined with the shorts.

I recieved the pattern for testing but all the thoughts are my own.

Have a nice sewing day!
SaSa

Bird's Eye Bleuet Dress, Deer+Doe

Hello, dear sewists,

For quite some time I wanted to sew a dress out of a nani iro double gauze fabric. I finally decided to buy Bird's Eye blue which has got some metalic splashes in pale blue. Originally, I had intended to sew the Cinema Dress by Liesl+Co, but when the fabric arrived, I feared it would look too much "eco" or "bio" or 70s and changed plans.

Quelle: www.etsy.com/de/listing/221922033/japanischer-stoff-nani-iro-birds-eye

My final choice was the Bleuet Dress by Deer+Doe, my third dress of this pattern. You can see my first two dresses here.

Source: http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/bleuet-dress.html

When cutting the fabric, I was careful to consider the print and took my time (three hours). The pattern includes 1,5cm seam allowance. I sewed the vertical seams with 1mm less (moved the needle 1 point at right) out of fear the dress would be too snug with this maybe friable fabric. It worked fine, the dress is a little bit looser than the other too.

I didn't want the sleeves being so puffy and used the sleeves of the Zsálya Dress by Kate+Rose Patterns instead. To take the puffiness out, I pleated the pattern to make it more snug.

To give the dress structure I topstitched all the seams with a colour corresponding with the darkest splatter of the busy fabric without topstitching the buttonband. I used the triple stitch stretching the fabric slightly so it would not pucker too much lengthwise. I had to be careful at the curves for the back stitching not to be excentric. Hopefully, the topstitching will slightly pucker the seams at the wash to make it interesting.

I looked for buttons in a similar colour and found some nice mother-of-pearl-ones at Kurzwarenrausch at Munich. I sewed the buttonholes horizontally. The hemline I sewed with my foot for 6mm hems with a sky blue thread.

I like the result. The topstitching payed off.

Pattern: Robe Bleuet, Deer+Doe
Sleeves-pattern: Zsálya Dress, Kate+Rose Patterns
Size: 38 bust- 40 waist- 42 hips
Fabric: 3,70cm Nani Iro Birds Eye Jiu metalic double gauze.

The dress is very comfortable, the fabric is a just a dream.

A lot of German sewing fellows are assembling to show their me made garments every wednesday at Me-Made-Mittwoch. Have a look! SaSa