Corset-blouse pattern hack Grace, Named and Datura, Deer+Doe

Hello, my dears,

Look at my newest make, a little linen summer blouse.

The Grace Corset Top pattern by Named has got lovely diagonal side seams but the shoulders are much too naked for my liking.

I remembered the lovely blouse I had seen at The Dashing Eccentric and decided to make a pattern hack using the yoke of the Datura Blouse by Deer and Doe.

 

Fortunately, I made two toiles of the Grace top to know that I had to sew a size 40 before cutting in my precious linen. The vertical seams have got paired seam allowances of one and two centimeters to make flat felled seams. I had to let them out 0,5 and 1cm towards the hem. I made flat felled seams of 5mm with my flat felled foot Bernina Nr. 70 shown here.

When finished the corset top, I dressed the Datura top underneath the corset top and my sewing teacher marked the top of the corset at the Datura with pins. Now I transferred the marking at the Datura pattern and cut the yoke pieces.

I sewed the shoulder and side seams and basted the corset piece to the yoke. We had to make little corrections, then I could sew my seam.

The yoke's cotton lining includes the seams.

Pattern hack:

bodice- Grace Corset Top, Named Clothing size 40 and
yoke- Datura, Deer and Doe size 38
Fabric: mediumweight linen, Garconne, Freiburg


Pants: Peter-and-the-Wolf Pants, Papercut Patterns




Have a look at all the other`s makes at MeMadeMittwoch!
SaSa

Gathered Blouse, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 mai and 12 Colours of Handmade Fashion

Bonjours, les filles,

Hello, my dears,

Voilà my make of May for my capsule wardrobe, my blouse!

When I saw the Gathered Blouses of Meg and Lizzy, instantly I fell in love with the pattern. It has got a lovely peter pan collar, three quarter length sleeves gathered at small cuffs, yokes with a gathered back and a high low hem.

Eventually, I bought a copy of the book "She Wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada at Foyles' during a visit at London last year.

The original book's title is "She has a mannish style" which describes the included patterns more properly. Maybe you have seen Carolyn's cool tapered trousers or the various modern tops she has made, which patterns are included in this book, too.

Because the others had claimed the blouse being rather short, I lengthened the bodice by 5cm. You have to add the seam allowances.

I had started sewing my blouse at one of the sewing bees we local bloggers would have occasionally.

I used a lovely lightweight shirting of unknown content I had bought at a fabric outlet (Tandem, Bühl). It is slightly transparent and I made the mistake of using nude interfacing. Therefore, the button bands, pocket edges, collar and cuffs were looking dirty. 

It took some months until I was ready to undo the interfaced pieces. I cut the pieces a second time and interfaced them with white interfacing and sewed it for another time.

I am so happy, this is the perfect blouse pattern!

Pattern: Gathered Blouse, N*17, "She Wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada

Size M

Striped lightweight shirting, Tandem Bühl

Alterations: lengthened the bodice by 5cm

Do you want to see what all the other participants have made for May? Hop over to Clo's! Miriam is collecting the post of the German participants.
 

I just realized that I can participate at Selmin's 12 Colours of Handmade Fashion, too. She had chosen the colour of white for May. Have a look at her gallery and enjoy!
 

SaSa

Guise Pants, Papercut Patterns and B4985 Blouse

Hello, my dear sewing friends,

German sewists are gathering weekly at MeMadeMittwoch. Today Tanja is showing us her new Tea dress.

I am wearing my B4985 blouse and my last year's Guise Pants by Papercut Patterns.

The blouse is one of my very first makes of 2012. I had been inspired by Carolyn who had made several versions by then. I made a version with splitted flutter cap sleeves and a collar.

I already made vertical french seams. Some years later, I shortened the bust piece because I didn't like the fit. 

The Guise Pants by Papercut Patterns are garçonne-style with front box pleats, a fly front zipper and front pockets as well as back welt pockets. 

They are very comfy to wear but not really flattering. I had a nice glencheck linnen in my stash and sew a size S. They are quite big. The waist elastic is sewn on and fixed by the belt loops so I cannot make it smaller.

Blouse pattern: B4985 sleeves vers. A and collar vers. B

Size 12, shortened bust piece

White linnen

Guise Pants, Papercut Patterns

Size S

Glencheck linnen, Tandem, Bühl

Malvarosa Dress Lily

Hello, dear sewist fellows,

have a look at my newest dress!

When buying the fabric for the knit top of my #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017, I couldn't resist putting my finger on the buy-button of this lovely fabric, Lili of Atelier Brunette which I had put my eyes on since quite a time.

It is a soft modal with a lot of drape, just perfect for a try of the Malvarosa Dress pattern Version B with three quarter length sleeves.

I had cut out the fabric some time ago and had made a little stitch sampling. A totally crumpled stitchline.

I cleaned my machine, oiled it, used other thread and changed the needle without any better stitches.

Can you believe that I had never changed my thread tension since two years ago when I received the sewing machine after a routine service? It was much too high. Eventually, I put it down from 2,5 to 1 and now it sews like a dream. This surely was the reason for creasing topstitching of my lingerie sewing, too.

I made new neckline facings which include the armhole seams to better fix it. The fabric is so soft you can see the fabric imprint (and that of my selfstitched lingerie). The skirt hem is falling down at the cute little pockets but that is ok with me.

I used my shortened bodice pattern pieces from my summery Downton Abby Dress and my Watercolour Dress. Maybe it is a smidgen too short now?

Pattern: Malvarosa Dress, paulinealice
size: 38 bust to 40 waist
fabric: modal Lily, Atelier Brunette
alterations: shortened the bodice (by 7cm?)lengthened the skirt by 7cm,
                  two back darts, new neckline facings.

This is a lovely to wear dress. The fabric is very soft and drapey, the pattern is very comfortable. There is enough room round the shoulders, the loose fitting waist not so flattering but so easy to wear. I love it.



Now have a look with me at MeMadeMittwoch!
SaSa

Blumen am MeMadeMittwoch * Florals on MeMadeMittwoch

Ihr Lieben,

My dear sewing friends,

May's first MeMadeMittwoch is themed "florals". It is no secret that I can't resist a lovely floral print.

My last sew of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 was The Azaire blouse by Gather.

I love to wear all of my floral garments, they are all in constant rotation. Here they are, old to newer. You can have a look at the corresponding post by clicking at the title.



Elisalex Dress, ByHandLondon

Robe Viviane, RDC

Peter And The Wolf Pants, Papercut Patterns

Ultimate Wrap Dress, SewOverIt

Chantilly, Colette

Malvarosa Dress, Paulinealice

Flora Dress, ByHandLondon

Robe Bleuet, Deer+Doe. No blog post, but I love to wear it so much! 

Zipfelkleid, Garconne 

Inari Dress, Named

Lourdes Cropped Jacket, Named

Midsummer Night's Dream Dress, Papercut Patterns

 

Go, have a look at the other's flowers at MeMadeMittwoch!

SaSa