Taika Dress, Named Clothing

My dear sewing friends,

such a long time I haven’t written any post about my makes. 

Every year, I would sew a new summer dress although my wardrobe is showing quite a lot of them. 

As soon as I had seen Marja’s Taika dress she had sewn as a tester for Named Clothing, I bought the dress pattern thinking of the same Atelier Brunette viscose crepe that Barbara later used for the pattern, have a look at her thorough post with beautiful pictures! However, I changed my mind using this flower print.

P

Guthrie and Ghani have celebrated their 10 years anniversary with an ecovero viscose printed with an exclusive design by fabulous Lauren in cooperation with Rachel Parker. If interested, here you can see all the details about the design:

https://youtu.be/lH6wyIWY7mc?si=G1fDa3biB3JvXJKQ

I’ve always admired Lauren’s tasteful work and couldn’t resist buying #beehappyfabric for sewing a dress.

ByHandLondon had their 10 years anniversary, too, and were celebrated by Janene @ooobop and Suzy @sewing_in_spain with the IG-challenge #BHL10years. With a post of my old Elisalex dress, I was lucky winning a 50£ price @pigeonwishes! I loved browsing all the lovely buttons and found the perfect buttons for my fabric.

I made a toile some time ago because I suspected some fitting issues with the gathering. I cut the front bodice in size 36, back bodice and sleeves in 38, skirt in 40 (toile in hip length) which went together smoothly.

I decided in shortening the bodice in upper bust height by 0,5cm because I am only 1,62cm tall.

When cutting my fabric, I cut the pieces mostly in single layers because I didn’t want the flowers being doubled and I love the result.

Seam allowances are 1cm, I topstitched nearly all the seams fixing the overlocked seam allowances for easier garment maintenance.

When sewing the skirt pieces, I realised that I had forgotten to correct the back skirt pattern pieces which I had cut out in a wrong size height 1” too short. I decided shortening the skirt front pieces by the same amount. The print being so busy, it isn’t too obvious that the waist is shortened.

Some sewists remarked that the buttonbands were gaping between the buttons, so I shortened the button hole distance from 8cm to 6cm and sewed 12 buttons.

Thank you Emmanuelle @zoubizoubisou for inspiring me to finish the dress eventually!

Hopefully, I will be able to wear the maxi dress on some sunny autumn days despite the summery print.

Pattern: Taika Dress by Named Clothing 

Size:      Front bodice 36

              Back bodice and sleeves 38

              Skirt 40

Alterations: bodice shortened by 0,5cm

              Button distance 6cm, 12 buttons

Fabric:   Ecovero viscose “Bee Happy Blooms” @rachelparkerdesigns and        @guthrieghani

Buttons: Lucid Button Set @pigeonwishes won at #BHL10 @byhandlondon @ooobop and @sewing_in_spain

It’s MeMadeMittwoch when a lot of German sewists would meet showing their memade garments. Go have a look!

Have a fabulous sewing time,

SaSa

Yates Coat sewn with the #GandGSewingSociety

Hello, my sewist friends,

yes, I have been sewing but didn't find the time for blogging. Maybe you want to have a look at my last project?

When at the end of last September, Lauren from @guthrieghani showed a sneak peek showing her next g&g sewing society kit, I knew that I had to buy it because I adored her fabric choice. I even considered making the sky blue colourway!

Some days later, another peek showed the Yate Coat's collar. Now I had some days left to decide wether this would be anything for me. The coat pattern by Grainline Studios features androgyn lines which appeal to me when at the same time, it's not really a flattering shape for anyone with hips.

However, I had fallen in love with the idea and decided to make it happen. Immediately after Lauren had put the kit in her shop, I bought the berry tone version. Guthrie and Ghani Sewing Society Kits provide everything necessary for your project. The melton wool by Abraham Moon was paired with a lovely blue viscose coat lining, some flowery Liberty Tana Lawn for the lining welt, a plenty amount of woven interfacing, Gütterman thread in berry and blue, Prym sewing machine needles and Prym press studs as well as a lovely label "made by me and g&g".

With the help of my sewing teacher, we decided to grade the side seams and after making a toile, I made some alterations to the pattern. Be aware that the sleeves are quite tight! Maybe I should have made a sloping shoulder adjustment, too.

Christmas was coming and my todo-list was long and so my gorgeous woolen stayed in the pressing bin waiting being block-fused. Which happened only in February.

After surpassing this hurdle, everything went smooth. With the kit, you get a link to a special video where Lauren gives some more explanations. She describes how to insert the Liberty welt, making a little hanger loop and which alterations she made with top stitching.

This was quite reassuring and when I would had listened and watched well, I wouldn't have made the mistake of cutting the wrong, overlaying seam allowance which then was no longer stitched down by the top stitching. I solved the mistake by sewing it down with a herringbone stitch.

I used the leftover Liberty for the pocket facings and interfaced them. Other than Lauren, I overlocked all the lining pieces of fear they would fray afterwards. This was a saver because my lining coat was too tight at hem level and I had to use a smaller seam allowance.

When bagging out the lining, before turning the coat out, I fixed the seam allowances with a herringbone stitch to the inside of the coat. I skipped topstitching the hem and didn't want the hem to fall down.

The only difficulty occurring was closing the little seam between hem facing and front facing. Another time, maybe I would have sewn them together before attaching the facings to the coat.

Pattern: Yates Coat, Grainline Studio
Fabric: Abraham Moon Melton Wool Coating "Magenta Pink", 525g/ms
             blue viskose coat lining
             flowery Liberty Tana Lawn for lining welts

Guthrie and Ghani Sewing Society Kit Oktober 2019

Sizing: 
- 6 shoulders, armscyes and sleeve heads
- 8 sleeve with adding (2x 1/2cm added at front seam)
- 8 grading to 12 at hip level continuing down (like an A-line shape)
Alteration: Forward shoulder adjustment ( shoulder point 1,5cm in front)

I am very happy with my new coat. It's cozy, quite warm and looks modern and sleek. Now it's time for some spring sewing, isn't it.

Have a look at the other German sewists' makes meeting today at Me-Made-Mittwoch! Wishing you a lovely sewing time!
SaSa

Post-edit
Thank you so much for all your lovely comments. I am so sorry not to be able to answer. All my comments on blogger-even at my own blog- don’t appear!
xxx SaSa

Packing my suitcase: Rushcutter dress, In the Folds and Zsálya Dress, Kate&Rose

(Advertising)

Hello, dear fellow sewists,

Today, German sewists are meeting at Me-Made-Mittwoch showing their me-made holiday outfits.

Post edit: Because of early closure of the link tool, my participation was rejected. So I completed my post by adding more information about the Zadie jumpsuit. Post is linked to Sew La La.

Voilà my linen holiday wardrobe for five days at Venice visiting the Biennale. 

About my trusted garments, you can read here: 

* skipped the Datura blouse for the old little white blouse

* hacked little white top

* linen Peter and the Wolf pants (never posted but worn a lot)

* two Moana dresses and 

* Malvarosa dress

* Piccadilly Pajamas

* Lourdes iacket

I made several new garments to wear this summer:

Like a lot of you too, I was attracted to his year's top garment, the Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory.

I had already worn my Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory at Dijon. I had received the lovely linen for free by Atelier Goldfaden.

First, I pressed a strip of interfacing at the neckline edge stretching the strip ever so lightly to prevent the fabric from stretching out. This prevented the neckline from gaping.

I cut a longer bias strip to use my binder foot for the binding. However, I had to rip the seam at several spots to mend it. The looser linen had spilled out. 

This was no problem with this dark colour. Without using the binder foot, I would have sewn the binding in two steps, not in one like instructed.

Pattern: Zadie jumpsuit by Paper Theory

Size: 10 (my bust measurement, ignoring waist and hip measurements which would have put me in 12 and 14)

Fabric: Lithuanian linen received for free by Atelier Goldfaden

There are so many gorgeous versions of the Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds. I had had the intention of making the sleeved version, but didn't have enough of this lovely Japanese linen. 

I managed to use the border flowers for the hem, front side and yoke pieces.

Pattern: Rushcutter Dress by In the Folds version B

Size D

Fabric: Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen 

I bought the pattern of the Zsalya Dress, by Kate&Rose Patterns when I had seen Carolyn's lovely dress made with an intricate patchwork insertion. I had used the sleeves pattern for a Bleuet dress already but hadn't seen a fabric I thought suitable. 

I had bought several Japanese linens and suddenly, my mind paired this opal colourway of Nani Iro Kokka wild flower linen with this pattern. 

The neckline is quite raised which makes the dress perfect for hot sunny days protecting the neck.

I am considering shortening the hem. Not to destroy the border print, I may sew a horizontal pleat.

Pattern: Zsalya Dress by Kate&Rose Patterns

Size: S  (bust)graded to L (hip)

Fabric: Wild Flower Linen Nani Iro Kokka, colourway opal

Last Biennale, I found my straw hat difficult to wear, because you cannot put it in a bag. Inspired by Sue Fadanista, I bought the PDF Pattern of Twenties' sun hats using left overs of my little blouse.

I sewed felled seams and omitted the lining and finished the brim with a bias strip. I interfaced the brim with a medium to light interfacing because I wanted it to flop and to be manipulated easily.

For the voyage, I added a little flower one daughter had felted as a child. 

The hat proved to be very useful. The fit for my head is perfect, tight enough the hat wouldn't be taken away by the wind. The front brim can be put up for a better view.

Pattern: Hats 1925 Brimmed Cloche 5651by Vintage Pattern Lending Library

Size : 23 inches (one size)

Fabric: linen leftovers 

Have a look at the others' gorgeous summer garments at Me-Made-Mittwoch and Sew La La!

Enjoy,

SaSa

P.S.: The link has closed one hour too early, couldn't get in!