Hello, my sewist friends,
yes, I have been sewing but didn't find the time for blogging. Maybe you want to have a look at my last project?
When at the end of last September, Lauren from @guthrieghani showed a sneak peek showing her next g&g
sewing society kit, I knew that I had to buy it because I adored her fabric choice. I even considered making the sky blue colourway!
Some days later, another peek showed the
Yate Coat's collar. Now I had some days left to decide wether this would be anything for me. The coat pattern by Grainline Studios features androgyn lines which appeal to me when at the same time, it's not really a flattering shape for anyone with hips.
However, I had fallen in love with the idea and decided to make it happen. Immediately after Lauren had put the kit in her shop, I bought the berry tone version. Guthrie and Ghani Sewing Society Kits provide everything necessary for your project. The
melton wool by Abraham Moon was paired with a lovely blue viscose coat lining, some flowery Liberty Tana Lawn for the lining welt, a plenty amount of woven interfacing, Gütterman thread in berry and blue, Prym sewing machine needles and Prym press studs as well as a lovely label "made by me and g&g".
With the help of my sewing teacher, we decided to grade the side seams and after making a toile, I made some alterations to the pattern. Be aware that the sleeves are quite tight! Maybe I should have made a sloping shoulder adjustment, too.
Christmas was coming and my todo-list was long and so my gorgeous woolen stayed in the pressing bin waiting being block-fused. Which happened only in February.
After surpassing this hurdle, everything went smooth. With the kit, you get a link to a special video where Lauren gives some more explanations. She describes how to insert the Liberty welt, making a little hanger loop and which alterations she made with top stitching.
This was quite reassuring and when I would had listened and watched well, I wouldn't have made the mistake of cutting the wrong, overlaying seam allowance which then was no longer stitched down by the top stitching. I solved the mistake by sewing it down with a herringbone stitch.
I used the leftover Liberty for the pocket facings and interfaced them. Other than Lauren, I overlocked all the lining pieces of fear they would fray afterwards. This was a saver because my lining coat was too tight at hem level and I had to use a smaller seam allowance.
When bagging out the lining, before turning the coat out, I fixed the seam allowances with a herringbone stitch to the inside of the coat. I skipped topstitching the hem and didn't want the hem to fall down.
The only difficulty occurring was closing the little seam between hem facing and front facing. Another time, maybe I would have sewn them together before attaching the facings to the coat.
Pattern: Yates Coat, Grainline Studio
Fabric: Abraham Moon Melton Wool Coating "Magenta Pink", 525g/ms
blue viskose coat lining
flowery Liberty Tana Lawn for lining welts
Guthrie and Ghani Sewing Society Kit Oktober 2019
Sizing:
- 6 shoulders, armscyes and sleeve heads
- 8 sleeve with adding (2x 1/2cm added at front seam)
- 8 grading to 12 at hip level continuing down (like an A-line shape)
Alteration: Forward shoulder adjustment ( shoulder point 1,5cm in front)
I am very happy with my new coat. It's cozy, quite warm and looks modern and sleek. Now it's time for some spring sewing, isn't it.
Have a look at the other German sewists' makes meeting today at
Me-Made-Mittwoch! Wishing you a lovely sewing time!
SaSa
Post-edit
Thank you so much for all your lovely comments. I am so sorry not to be able to answer. All my comments on blogger-even at my own blog- don’t appear!
xxx SaSa
